Starts just right of

Reefer Madness

and a bit left of

Gobbler

on the Turkey Perch.  Take the awesome hand crack at twin cracks and continue up the corner crack as it gradually becomes fists and then offwidth up a very steep and awkward corner (crux) for 20 sustained feet until a nice fingerlock saves you from the wide section...pull onto a large sloping ledge below a large roof.  Tackle the roof using 2 cracks for pro and jams and stem/chimney your way between blocks on both sides to easily turn the roof and up to a tree anchor.

Ragger Bagger

Turkey Sandwich

Phist Full of Turkey

Moderate  2 (originally entered as Lack Crack)

Short and Sweet

Liquid Acrobat

Reefer Madness

Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth

Easy Chimney

Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width

Honky Jam Ass Crack

Stiff, Little Fingers

Alligator Skin (aka Cold Turkey)

Moderate 1

Gobble Up

Bloody Englishman

Wide Chimney

Gobbler's Cobbler, The

Left Handed Jew

Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2)

Steppenwolf

Mark of Zorro

This short climb lies immediately above Reefer Madness, and the two routes can be combined as one pitch if you are careful about rope drag.  From the top of Reefer Madness, traverse left into the gully (top of Sangaphogos).  Move up a few feet and then traverse right to the start of a right-slanting hand crack.  The next 15' forms the crux of the route, as you are hanging on hand jams while moving to the right - great fun!  The rock is a bit gritty, but the jams and protection are good (tape is advised).  When you reach a sharp bend in the crack, step up and continue on easy ground to the top.

If you would like some offwidth, this is a little more challenging than the offwidth sections on

Ragger Bagger

and

Gobble Up

. Scramble up to a slab.  Step over to a crack with a chockstone.  You will now see two cracks.  The one on the left is

The Gobbler's Cobbler

.  Step down into the hole and start work on the wide crack.  The crux will come soon (the rock is a little flaky here).  The upper part felt a lot like

Handjacker

to me.

The crux is beginning it and finishing it. This is a fun, boulder, crack problem.

Start up a thin crack (crux) to a small overhang.  Step over the overhang to wider cracks and slabbing above.  I enjoyed the bottom half.  The upper half is a little dirty.  Not a bad climb if the popular climbs are busy.

This is the finger/hand crack on the far left side of Turkey Perch. Most of the jams are somewhere between fingers and hands, lots of fingerlock oppurtunity here. Good sustained problem, and a good topout. Too bad there isn't 90 more feet....

This route is on the far left side of Turkey Perch.  Climb a very thin and flaring crack for 25 feet using very technical footwork.  Stem over to your right into another flaring crack (crux .12a).  After this move, continue up through an easy section to the large belay ledge next to a pine tree.  This route is a great toprope and is fun to see how well your footwork is.

Turkey Perch has a lot of nice one pitch climbs that can be either led, or  TR'd.  One example is Reefer Madness, a nice crack going up the middle, right behind a tree.  I guess you could TR this, and the ones right next to it, but the climbs on the right or left of the wall are better for that.  This one takes a nice crack that curves left at the top, and climbs a slab up to the overhang/block.  Traverse around to an easy scramble to a tree anchor at the top.

This route lies between

Wide Chimney

and

Honky

.  I have three guidebooks for the area, and this route is not in any of them.  So, I gave it a name (If this ever had a name I would be happy to change it).  I first climbed this in the conditions shown in the second photo.  I was completely soaked upon arriving at the top, hence the name.  Start up the left side of a block (nice ledge for

Honky

).  Scramble left to another ledge.  The difficulties start here.  Follow the curving cracks on the right to the top.  I enjoyed the route due to the variety from thin cracks to offwidth and a little bit of stemming.

This is a pleasant chimney with good gear.  It is easier towards the top.

This is the widish crack to the right of the Chimney left of

Ragger Bagger

on Turkey Perch.  Looks like an offwidth, but has hidden holds inside so it feels more like a face route.  Nice pitch-if it was more sustained I would give it another star.

This climb starts 10 feet left of

Left Handed Jew

.  Begin by getting on top of a boulder at the base of the climb.  Continue up through a beautiful 5.7 flake/crack.  Move right into a large fist jam crack to finish the last 20 feet.

This is the only bolted climb on Turkey Perch.

Just around the corner to the right of

Steppenwolf

, you can see this steep, splitter hand crack on the left wall of a dihedral.  Moderate jamming (you can stem off to the right to make it even easier) leads up to the steep crux section.  The crack here is a bit flared in places, but you can place good gear for protection.

This is one of those routes that is better to lead.  You start at a gap between two large, leaning blocks.  You can start on the outside or the inside.  Either way, go up till you can squeeze through an opening (you can skip this and go straight up, but then you miss the dirty, fun, hand traverse).  Step down and climb up an easy slab with a hand crack.  Now the fun begins, place your pro with a long runner and hand traverse out from under the roof.  Mantle up then low fifth to the top.  For a better finish, traverse over to Mod 2 after the mantle and climb Mod 2's final roof.

Gobble is the hand/fist crack in between

Ragger Bagger

and

Steppenwolf

, just left of a bolted route.  This is a great climb that I generally do any time I am at Turkey.  Sustained jamming, mostly hand and fist, but you can put gear anywhere you want.  This climb and

Steppenwolf

are my favorites on Turkey Perch.

This is an obscure route on the far left side of Turkey Perch. It is the crack system just left of

Liquid Acrobat

. The climb starts with an undercling about chest level. The crack is #3 Camalot to start with. The crack soon becomes a double crack, one that is hand-size and the other a bit smaller. The crux of the climb is in the beginning and finishes in the 5.6 range.

This is a short route that is well worth 15 minutes of your time. It doesn't get a lot of use and has some loose rock near the top. The tree at the top offers a great belay in the shade on this sunny, south-facing climb.

This route starts as a semi-wide crack at the bottom which can be bypassed on the ledges to your right where you then would work back left after manteling into the wide ledge where the crack is near hands width.  Continue straight up from that point until you get into the bottom of the chimmney (I found that the crack on the left wall presumably the

Gobbler's Cobbler

was useful at times).  From here, head mostly straight up until you can get some gear in the cracks above near the bush (you could cheat yourself from here and just walk up and pass 1 chock stone, but why?). I kept chimneying until I had to pass under the last large chockstone into the big room above.  I think it would be cool to stay on the outside of the last large chockstone.

This is the rightmost crack system on the rock.  A chimney in the upper half of the route is obvious from below.  You don't actually climb this chimney (from close up, it looks to be considerably harder than 5.8).  Scramble up a ways, do one thin move, and then look at the chimney.  Step left and climb a narrower crack.  This crack widens from hand size to offwidth as you move up.

This is a great warm-up route!  The first thirty feet is perfect handjams.  After that, either cross over to the left into a large 5.7ish crack or continue straight up in a thin, but fun, crack.  Finish over the bulge at about 65 feet up.

Start up a crack which gets thin (crux for me) to an overhang. Move left past the overhang to a nice ledge.  Climb up an easy slab to the upper overhang (crux for my friends).  Walk up a slab to a tree to belay.  I enjoyed this climb.

This is a very cool crack on the Turkey Perch just right of

Gobbler

.  It goes straight up hand crack that widens to fist and a 6 foot wide section that is hard.  Just above this wide pod is hands that gradually get smaller to steep, shallow corner with offsize fingers (crux) that dies out at a bulge.  Make reachy move to big hold to "escape" this blank section and move up to perfect hands on a less steep slab to a large tree belay (100 feet I'd guess). This is very sustained the whole way....

Description

Protection

Routes in Turkey Perch