Start in the shallow right facing corner in front of the two large boulders at the base of the gully. Work up to the small ledge and large overlap. Continue up the left most bolt line to a small ledge. At the ledge fire up and right to the anchors in the middle of the cliff (above Funeral Pyre).

Firecracker (New)

Optimus Prime

Eternal Flame

OC Roof

Unnamed 5.9

El Chiste

OC Spiked

Get Jiggy With It

Iron Sheik

Unnamed 5.11c

Burnt Beyond Recognition (Mixed)

Hot Feet

Spike Roof

Dalha Wanna

Proj

Return to Zero

OC Road To Nowhere

Fresh Bag

This mixed route starts up under the far right side of the roof below the large dihedral. Climb up to the horizontal below the large dihedral. Place a piece or work left slightly to clip the first bolt. Pull the crux move up into the dihedral and climb past two more bolts. Gear to the anchors.

Left most side of the roof.  Awesome steep boulder problem to a technical face.  

  There is a 12b variation start which start to the left of the main start and traverses into Optimus Prime.

Further left past the project line is the 5.12 face with two variations. Start under the overhanging section of rock just behind a double tree trunk. Work either straight up and right using thuggy bouldery moves to gain a decent stance and then fire the tiny crimp fest to the top (strenuous).

Start the same as Spike Roof, however at the roof work our right to gain the lip a few feet right of Spike Roof. From here fire the seam to the top.

This fine route starts just to the left of the hole 15 ft. right of Firecracker. Start on decent holds to gain an horizontal with a decent gear placement. Work a balancy move up to the next bolt and gain the ledge above. From the ledge work right along the horizontal (more gear) to a shallow left facing corner. From the corner work up and left on good holds and classy movement. Work a few more moves upwards past another bolt to a good ledge and another bolt. Climb diagonally left across the face or up to the arete and follow it left towards the shared anchors above Funeral Pyre (TR).

The obvious overhanging arete on the right side of the roofs.  Bouldery in the start with powerful moves.

This is the first route out the main roof on the left end. Work up to the horizontal roof, fire out the roof to a spike and the lip. Climb the face to the top.

Starting on the far right side under the large roof, climb up to the large horizontal as if you were headed up El Chiste (12d) and rather then fire up out the arete continue out the roof and into Iron Sheik to the top.

This route tackles the largest and steepest section of roof.  Move up a faint corner to some jugs.  Then crimp and undercling your way out to make a big move out to a jug.  Once you get the jug let your feet out and hold a crazy swing.  Then go left making one more big move and finish left of the arete on a set of anchors.

Climb the first sequence of Optimus Prime the bolt and then traverse right past the dihedral. Once on the outer face fire up right of the corner.

Climb the arete near the left end of the cliff. Big moves between great holds.

The obvious roof climb just left of the OC Roof.  It features a big spike hold and a tough boulder problem to pull the lip. The boulder problem is technical and powerful to a steady vertical head wall on well spaced glue-ins that might have you feeling like you are in Siruana, Spain.  This route is great and a must do for boulder problem specialist.

This route starts under the overhang about 15 ft. past Fresh Bag. Work up the overhanging start on good holds to gain an awkward rest on a crack. From here step right onto the face to strenous moves and a bolt or two. Work to the top of the face and then up and over several ledges (gear or R/X) to an anchor.

Star at the same spot as Dalha Wanna and rather then working up and left on good holds work out right under the overhang on holds that face the wrong direction to the corner. Work the arete to the top of the face and climb the ledges to the Dalha Wanna anchor.

This route starts to the same as the 12a however from the beginning it fire off left over the overhang and then rejoins the 12a above the bolt. It too fire the difficult crimp line to the top.

Start up OC and cut right after the roof and finish on the Jiggy, Sheik exit. This one is awesome. Pumpy and long.

Starting on the right side of the hole at a left facing corner work up above the bulge to a bolt. Step left at the bulge onto the face and climb towards the next bolt. From here some tricky moves lead to the large horizontal (without gear R/X). At the horizontal fire up over the lip to decent holds and another bolt. Work up easy ledges past one last bolt to the anchor.

70' west facing cliff. Excellent rock with some large roofs. The sport routes here are spicy and many of them require a piece or two of gear. Somehow Ken Nichols was able to find 40 routes on this small cliff, most people only climb the 15 or so bolted routes that have been added down below in some line drawings/topos.

 In 8/2008 a group of climbers (C3 Connecticut Climbers Coalition) obtained permission from the town of Southington to place bolts at the Fire Wall. They also stabilized trails and cleaned up trash in the area.  

BEWARE: This area has Timber Rattlers (Sept. 2012)

Description

Protection

Routes in Sport Routes