Squat start on a deep pocket/incut crimp and climb straight up the arete on mostly slopers. I found it easiest to climb out and left to the apex of the boulder but other beta may be better.

https://youtu.be/PKrP4U9J6fI

 

Arkenstone

Nazgul

Unexpected Journey

Oakenshield

Smaug

Smaug's Treasure

Greedy Dragon

Sit start in the hueco as for Smaug, traverse right on the prominent rail all the way across to top out on The Arkenstone. This variation of Smaug has the easiest series of moves and top out, but is also the most committing and rather pumpy.   

Sit start on a positive undercling and climb out right to a nice hueco and finish up the technical face. This one is somewhat height dependent but has alternate beta for shorter folks which seems a bit harder. Needs more ascents for a more accurate grade but it felt hard!

Start on the pocket / incut crimp on the right arete as for Arkenstone and climb straight up the face on good holds and a positive series of rails. This one is also a great stand start, in the V4/5 range.

Sit start matched on the large hueco as for Smaug. Climb up and trend left making a desperate toss to slopers near the lip, easy topout. Rather lowball but fun! This one is significantly harder in warmer weather.

https://youtu.be/PKrP4U9J6fI

 

Start on the huge hueco jug undercling and make moves to the large sloper rail. Traverse right until midway through the rail, grab a few crimps and side pulls to a slopey top-out - easily one of the best boulder problems on mount elden.

Strong contender for one of the best boulder problems on Mt. Elden! Pull on the large juggy hueco undercling and continue out the rail to the Apex of the boulder on good slopers and crimps out a 35 degree overhang... Continue past the exit for Smaug, and make a few extra moves to gain positive slopers on the lip. One final thrutch to good pockets and an easy top out. This one is very similar in difficulty to Smaug but feels more exposed and the consequences of a fall would be greater. Interested to hear what others think! 

One of the best boulders on the entire mountain. Good rock on steep terrain characterizes this quality hunk of dacite.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3) Smaug