The right side of the alcove with the Farmboy Dyno. Climb the steep featured wall with fun moves, throw right for the awkward layback up high and grapple with slopers to a dirty, insecure topout. A rather bold send.

Mother Approved

The Extreme Problem

Farmboy Dyno

The Bad

Hidden Dragon

Upper Tanker

Gym Wall Center

The Slab

Chinese Gangfight

and The Awesome

Dope Lounge

Huck Finn

Donkey Punch

Iron Monkey

Dirty Friction

Guns in Bars

Icy Mike

Green Mile Direct

Las Furias

Tom Sawyer

Cleveland Steamer

The Good

Stables Away!

Complexing Napoleon

A hard dyno solves this lovely overhanging wall. Step off the skirt, climb to two round slopers and make a very difficult leap to a horizontal fin. The wall collects dirt from storm runoff and often requires dedicated brushing.

Locate the pretty vertical face with two prominent "X"-forming seams in the middle. Begin at left, with a vertical row of pockets. Technical moves lead up and right across the X to reach good holds and an easy mantel. Beware of dirty holds on the top.

Start with an obvious RH side pull, hit the rail and then a big move to the next juggy rail gets the business started. Easy top out once you get there.

Left of Chinese Gangfight, start at a large pinch and pick through the vertical face above on small holds. Cryptic and rarely attempted.

Begin to the right of Donkey Punch with an incut undercling and a sidepull jug. Climb the rippled face to a decent rail near the top, then push through a trademark dirty-ass mantel. Frequently passed over due to the big fallen block just outside the landing zone, however, a good spotter should keep you relatively safe.

Big moves out the overhang in the center of the wall. Start on the good shelf below the overhang and fire out to a hard-to-see jug over the lip (this will be a near-dyno for shorter folks.) Lunge again to a good edge and top out on low-angle rock. Gymnastic and very satisfying.

Start with a decent pocket and edge on the layer below the slab proper. A smattering of miserable holds separates you from usable features near the top. Unforgiving.

Aggressive moves requiring technique and tenacity. From dirty rock down low, climb into sloping underclings, then grovel over the bulge with desperate slaps to slopers. Mantel when possible. 

  As noted in the comments, the bottom of this problem has broken repeatedly but the overall difficulty remains unchanged.

Right most problem that kind of follows the seam. Climb up to the big chunk and make some cools move up slopey holds to a jug at the lip and a fairly easy mantle. Picking the right spots on the rails is key and any of the rocks sticking out of the dirt above the lip are definitely use at your own risk.

From the jug rail around chest height, climb to the sidepull flake in the roof. With confidence, pass the big sloping block above and stick the good holds at the lip. Top out easily, high above the river cobble landing. Amazing movement, perfect features, plenty of air - one of Flagstaff's best.

The big roof just past Green Mile: right of the oak tree, start at two flat holds and climb jugs to a rail in the roof, then leap to the huge fin-like jug and top out up and right with care. This problem will get to be considerably better (and possibly a bit harder) as it cleans up.

Sustained flowing moves all the way, with a high crux and a sketchy topout. From a pocket and sidepull around chest height, trend up and right powerfully to a throw for the good right hand rail near the top of the wall. Push through the sloping mantel at the top, resisting the urge to grab the clods of grass. Excellent climbing, but a bit chossy. Repeated breakage has nudged up the difficulty a bit.

The left side of the Chinese Gangfight wall. Begin with a neat undercling pinch. Move up and left to the block in the roof, then up the short face.

Excellent moves through overhanging pockets to a dirty rounded topout.

Around the left side of the same roof as Huck Finn, start low on a good flat hold and climb through a crux move off a small sharp crimp, then boldly up through many sandy holds. Another new-ish problem that should clean up and improve.

A classic sandstone layback, the quintessential Kelly Canyon moderate. Follow the left-facing rail to its terminus at the V-groove near the top of the wall, then press out the cruxy sloping mantel. An alternate start to the right, climbing through the obvious pockets, is a bit harder.  

  For a four-star experience, be sure to brush the topout in advance.

Brilliant! Packs a punch all the way to the end. Start on the right side of a crack and slap through the roof, heading right with big spans and lots of tension (the left side of the crack is off.) Match the decent edges over the lip, then head back left on a crimp rail to reach a rounded jug. Pull sloping edges through the upper bulge to stand on the rounded jug. Walk it out (carefully - the hillside above is steep and slippery.) 

  (As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. Makes sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.) 

  Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.

A fun line that is a variation to the right of Stables Away! Instead of starting on the prow start to the right in the cove and make a series of big moves through small and tiny pockets before moving left and finishing on the Stables Away! top. Likely dirty...

Stand start on 2 lean back holds on the boulder right of huck finuse the crack or ledge veering diagonally left + up to go to a left hand pinch . After grabbing the pinch , go up and right to a very deep pocket. Topout using the tree knob / root for a V2 exit or if you’re feeling good topout normally using only the rock for a V3 problem. ( If so I recommend bringing a brush)

 

Start at a sweet iron knob for the left hand and a small crimp for the right. Move past thin patina to a sloping pocket and a flat rail. From here, a couple big lockoffs gain the top of the wall. Consider brushing the topout in advance. Some of the most bullet rock in the canyon with fabulous movement all the way.

Start on the big sloper on the left side of the wall. Climb up good rails to a standard Kelly canyon top out.

A nice boulder problem that climbs a orange and white feature that jets out like a ships prow. Starts on the prow low before moving up and through a series of underclings and pockets and eventually some jugs. Of coarse ends with a classic dose of Kelly Canyon at the top.

SDS on the obvious flat holds, move up to the rails and continue up the arete to a standard Kelly Canyon topout

Start on Icy Mike, traverse right through Cleveland Steamer into a tough slopey crux and finish through the crux of Donkey Punch.

The centerpiece of Kelly, this is the location of some of the canyon's best problems including Icy Mike, Dope Lounge, Donkey Punch, Green Mile Direct, and many others. Lots of these problems are high with slopey topouts and bad landings - bring pads.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Donkey Punch Area