Tensiony start with right hand on obvious right-facing sidepull in center of face at waist height, left on small crimp flake inches above. Find feet in small seem and move up to bumpy sloper. Find feet on ledge way out right and reach for good edge up high. Top out straight up, same as Biker Crack.

The Derailleur

Jurassic Park Arête Extension

Sweet Nothings

Whale Crack

Whale Blubber

The Uppercut

Southern Starscape Slap

Tail of the Whale

The Eye

72 Inch Wheels

Coffee Is My Cologne

Sweet Mouth

Walker Texas Ranger

Biker Crack

Jurassic park arête

Whale's Mouth

Short Nothings

Biker Arête

Stand start with right foot smear on shelf and right hand on sidepull left on raptor claw crimp.  Throw to small pinch with pebble further up right hand arete, set feet and throw too small knobish sloper, bump to good shelf at apex and finish.

Sit start same as for "Jurassic park arête," but continue right on slopers to finish on the good top rail of "Coffee is my cologne," top out.   This adds a few more moves on slopers and an exciting finish to the rail. Have Fun!

Start with hands on the low thin seam right of the vertical crack. Traverse right along the seam to the good ledge. Go straight up the bulging prow using tough sloping dishes and finish the difficult mantle. (Same top out as Short Nothings)

Sit start at the far left of the boulder using pockets for hands and low rails for feet. Traverse right on horizontal crack, then go up the vertical crack to top out.

Stand start in the middle of the juggy horizontal crack, left of the vertical one. Go straight up to top out.

In no seriousness, Grab the meaty crimp on the left and the arête on the right. Now paste your sticky rubber on the bomber crystal... you don't see it? Now pull off the ground and make the move to the lip. If you made it, well done. If not, I'm sure you look great with a Nelly band-aid.

Start on the low right side of boulder with good right foot on small incut, move left towards the middle of boulder via the slappy features atop it.  After two moves compress shoulders and throw your foot onto middle seam, top out

Stand start at the far left end of the large upper crack on slopers. Traverse right using sloping lip for hands. Top out at the vertical crack.

Start with hands on the low thin seam right of the vertical crack. Go straight up to high crimps on small seam. Use the sloper and nearby pocket, then reach to a mono crystal and top out the slopey lip.

Layback start on flat sidepull rail a few feet right of the arête. Move up through crimps to a big reach left. Top out same as Biker Arete. Jezzery can be found to aid the reach but bringing your 6 foot wingspan wont hurt either.

Start with hands on the low thin seam right of the vertical crack. Traverse right along the seam to the good ledge. At the good ledge finish right on good holds. (Same top out as Whales Mouth)

Start  right hand on flake, left hand sidepull (arete) with crappy left foot smear on granular granite dish (right foot flag). Tense body to stay on (without jumping right off the bat) and throw hard with right hand for pebble on top of boulder, suffer through the match, get high feet and finish.   Sit start begins matched on slash in middle of boulder and makes one extra move to the sidepull in order to get a highfoot for the throw (probably around V7 with the low start)

Sit start with hands on low sidepull and a thin foot. Shoot right to the rail and climb sidepulls and edges to the top. Top out is a little dirty but with good holds.

Sit start on shelf and left hand on arete left foot on incut, move into a heel hook and bump hand further up arete with right thumb catch.    next move right hand to sloper and left out to shelf, double mantle and top out left of previously established problems.  awesome

Start at the far left of the good ledge that makes up the whales mouth. Smear feet and traverse right using pockets and slopers on the right corner to top out. (Same top out as Sweet Mouth)

Start at the good ledge that makes up the whales mouth. Go straight up the bulging prow using tough sloping dishes and finish the difficult mantle. (Same top out as Sweet Nothings)

Sit start the arête. Work the sidepulls and pinches up to the rounded lip. Be careful if attempting the top out, it is generally very dirty.

Good bouldering in and along riverside drive.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in James River Park System