Begin up on a ledge to the right and uphill from the main Penguin Land feature. The two bolts at the base of our project, "Quail for a While" will be on your left. Climb easy ground with a wide crack on your left. You'll soon find your "option only" to choose the wide crack on your left or a thinner, more vertical crack on your right. Climb to ledge and then ascend the south face of the main buttress through a couple ledges to a 2-bolt anchor on top of the formation. Enjoy the view, belay your partner up, rap off with a single 60 m rope.

Option Only

Walk the Line

Snakes and Ladders

Whirlybird

Sidewinder

Prey for Penguins

Southern Exposure

Avian Flew

Fledged

Hufflepuff

Penguins

Fledgling

Wide broken crack to ledge to broken vertical crack system and slight overhanging lip to the same large belay ledge as above. This route was established first, ground up, before AMH set Whirlybird as an alternate to this one. Rap from 2 bolt anchors above Penguins, approaching from behind.

Broken crack past chunky rock to access the arête to right of Hufflepuff. Committing crux bulges past a couple bolts and thin face climbing to the same large ledge used for belay. Rap from 2 bolt anchors above Penguins, approaching anchor from behind.

Wide crack past with a bit of potentially loose rock, past bulge to ledge. More wide crack/chimney climbing to another ledge and then onto vertical face to pull slight overhand before the top. Rap from 2 bolt anchors on top of Penguins

Wide broken crack to ledge to short vertical face with horizontal protection to same large belay ledge as above 2 climbs. Rap from 2 bolt anchors above Penguins, approaching anchor from behind. Same start as "Southern Exposure", heading straight up the face instead of right to the broken vertical crack.

Sedona style stout jamming in a steep, left leaning crack! Heady part for the crack climber will be the short face with relatively poor pro (i.e. black/blue Alien or BD C3 cams) to get you to the ledge. Getting up into the crack is probably the crux and the reward is a good taste of jamming.

Short face to the right of Penguins to the thin vertical and overhanging finger crack. Pass the slight roof and continue up vertical face to big ledge on top. Pull final roof and stand up in delight, raising your hands like DAS is in the photo!

Broken vertical crack system to upper face to two bolt anchor.

Climb broken, vertical crack system to upper face to two bolt anchor.

Start in alcove to far right of the feature. Committing opening moves to ledge. Use thin vertical crack to protect right arête to another ledge below bulging face. Traverse 10 feet left to base of overhanging and right arching finger to hands to off-width crack system to large ledge with single bolt to help protect belay. Rap from 2 bolt anchors above Penguins, approaching anchor from behind.

Short vertical face with thin pro to the same ledge used for "Sidewinder." Protect in the "Sidewinder" crack and step into thin air to commit to the overhanging lip and get into the vertical crack above. Airy and scary, but what a thrill! Easier than it looks, but you'll need a cool lead head for it. Named because of how cold (and snowy) it was when we sent this.

Wide crack on the left side of the free standing formation just to the south of Penguinland area.

This is the farthest south and most surprisingly rich in routes sub area of Raptor Ridge. We had originally disregarded the region of the crag for being too short and broken up. Closer inspection revealed a number of intriguing crack climbs that we established relatively quickly thanks to the close proximity to each other. Most were developed ground up, as with others in this area, which added to the excitement and satisfaction of developing the area.  

  Note that a single two-bolt anchor with quick-links and biners is set up in the same style as most of our anchors at the top of Penguins and it serves as the rap station for 8 of the climbs of this area ("Snakes and Ladders" through "Southern Exposure").

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Penguinland Area