Get into the double undercling and shoot left to the glued-in baseball size hold.  Crank on this until it breaks off of the wall, swear a little, then haul up into the comfortized hold to clip.  Trend right off a crimp and pinch to clip again then move a little left of the bolt-line to a desparate stab into a good two-finger pocket.  Climb the rest with little difficulty.  Two split links sit at the hangers so bring an atc to rap and avoid a twisted rope. 

  Note:  As of 5/2010 I really did break off the key glued-in hold.  I have no idea what a new grade would be but it's much harder than I can climb. The baseball is nearby if anybody wants to glue it back in.

Fluffy

Razor Burn

Son of Fury

Axis of Power

Sacrificial Lizard

Serpentine

Heart Shaped Drill

Hand Job

Trick Mechanics

Evil Surprise

Haul of Flame

Power Monger

Shortest Straw

Evil Offspring

Bull in a China Shop

Sandman

Limestone Cowgirl

Last Episode

Kindest Cut

The Thin Thin

Heart Shaped Box

Tales From the Grypt

Pocket Runt

Mighty Morphin

Pockets of Resistance

Take Your Pick

Twisted Sister

This Old Route

Swiss Arete

System in Ruins

Wind Chill

Lazarus

Hooked On Pockets

Genesis

Got Gingko

State of Panic

Pretty Pasties

Honed Improvement

Twist of Cain

Bone Crusher

Cry Baby

Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed

Bats in the Belfry

Kolaric Energy

Unpopular Mechanics

Cowgirl Diplomacy

[Redacted]

Power Trip

Under Attack

Friendly Fire

Zone of Exclusion

Total Lack of Jump

Blackened

Start up the juggy underclings of heart shaped box to an obvious traverse right around the third or fourth bolt.  Traverse right on mostly good holds to a nice jug rail.  Set up here and enter the sequency crux, two small pockets and a big move right to a jug.  Fight the barn door get established and pull one more big move to a nice rest.  From here continue up significantly easier 5.10 climbing to the anchors. 

  One of the easier Jack's ticks at the grade.

In between Sacrificial Lizard and Tales from the Grypt, this climb looks 5.12, climbs 5.11, and is neglected by far too many climbers. 

  It climbs through a fairly straight forward face to a blanker looking section.  Some decent pockets and adequate crimps take you to a Grypt-esque finish, although the best holds disguise themselves better than on Grypt. 

  On a final note, in the final 10-15 feet the rock quality worsens; so climb carefully and try not to pepper your belayer.

Clip Gold Fixe hangers through a pockety crux to a good rest below the roof. Rest up before finding a way directly over the roof. 

Jugs, pockets, under clings, crimp jugs, and even a sloper.  This line has some fun holds to pull on.  Like a lot of routes on this wall, this route starts with a boulder problem.  After the bouldery but fun start, there's a couple buckets to recover on.  Moving off the buckets, the climbing becomes pocketed with some pockets being great and some being less than great. Find the good pockets then make one last difficult move to gain footing on the ledge by the last bolt.  From here easier climbing leads to the anchors, traverse the ledge left a little before heading up to the anchors.   Don't let the back wall intimidate you, you never get near it and of course you don't use it. You'll want to stick clip the first bolt and maybe even the second bolt to start the route.

Moving to and past the 4th bolt is cruxy.  This is a decent climb.  Several new hangers on the route. After the traverse this climb stays on you right until the end.

Bolted V7 right of Sandman.  Short but fun.

Pull off the ground using good handjams through a slightly chossy section getting up to the second bolt.  From here bust right using a collection of jams, underclings, and laybacks.  Pull around the final overhang and run up the final moves to the anchors. 

  Possible chipped pocket at the crux.

While this is a link-up it does have some very interesting powerful moves.  It gets all day shade, so well worth doing if you are looking for something in the shade. 

  Start up Trick or Tweak climbing through underclings to the third bolt.  Here make a big move to catch a good hold and make cool moves to move left to the diving board feature.  Get a quick rest on the diving board and pull the upper crux of "Unpopular Mechanics".  While this route traverses quite a bit, rope drag wasn't an issue.

This is my favorite of the "connect the dots" routes in this grid bolted section of the Main Wall.  Start on Evil Offspring and link into the top of October Surprise, which is the bolt line just right of the Arete.  This is not listed in the newest guidebook, and the name is coined just from the two routes that are connected.

One of the longer and best of Main wall's harder lines.  This one is fairly continuous to the top of the cliff band.  Start as for Evil Offspring with a tough move off cheater stones to get on the wall. Head up on good holds through steep rock for several bolts.  Where Evil Offspring cuts right, head slightly left then straight up to the thin balancy crux. Once on the slab a nice rest presents itself.  From here head up through steep ground past another bolt to a hard clip and a tricky sequence getting established on the face above.  Get a nice rest and continue up easier ground to the anchors. 

  Probably on the lower side of 13b.  The first half is about 13a to a nice rest with a 12c finish.

Begin on the drilled jug fest of Power Trip.  Just below the anchors of Power Trip traverse right to get into an awkward dihedral.  Pull an awkward roof to get established on an easier face below the anchors.  Feels like quite a step up from Power Trip.

Make a very bouldery start, cruxing on a long pull from a undercling to a good drilled? 3-finger pocket.  Make a few more moves to pass the third bolt and pull the roof to a stance at the fourth bolt.  From here it is no more than 5.9 climbing to the anchors. 

  The published grade is 12a, but this felt easier than that.  Might have a few chipped pockets.

Starts on Haul of Flame and traverses the rail to the right and finishes up on Unpopular Mechanics.

Grab good holds from the top of the cheater stones and pull through the no feet start.  Do a boulder problem through a bulge and then continue up easier face to the anchor.  Good fun route!

Short but sustained with a variety of movement and holds.

Located in the middle of the Main Wall, and just around and left from Under Attack (5.12a). This lower portion of this route is also the start for two other routes which continue out right to climb the bulging face left of Under Attack.   

  Great moves on this as you traverse out right making long moves on mostly good holds to a two-handed jug at the 4th bolt. Continue up the slightly overhanging face above (crux) on somewhat tricky pockets and the occasional edge to anchors. Stemming left past the 4th bolt supposedly lowers the rating to mid 5.11.

Climb vertical face just to the left of a dihedral using pockets, edges, and the arete.

Pull off the ground and encounter the crux, a shouldery move moving from one gaston to the next.  Make a few more tricky moves to to a few nice jugs and a resting hole.  Rest well as the rest of the route is sustained and tricky on small holds.   Pull the final redpoint crux just below the final bolt and a nice resting ledge. 

  Also didn't encounter any chipped holds on this one (that I saw anyways) and the grade seemed to be solid.

The Thin Thin starts in the left of two scoop features in the middle of Main Wall, about 7 feet off the ground. Pull off the ground and head through the short roof on jugs to a small, round hueco.  Catch a quick shake and hit a small, rounded edge.  Pull the extremely powerful crux on quarter to half pad 2.5 to 2 finger pockets, culminating in an insane stab for a deep 2 finger pocket.  From here, clip the 4th bolt and head slightly right to some amazing natural pinches and pockets on and around the small arete. Tenuous climbing leads to the anchors. 

  This route is on immaculate pink rock and mostly consists of natural pockets and pinches.  There is a certainly drilled pocket above the crux which I skipped (there is a natural pinch and 3 finger pocket a foot or two to the right of it), while the pocket that marks the end of the crux was definitely comfortized and may have been drilled deeper.  Aside from these two holds, however, this route is natural and is among the best in Jacks Canyon, and to top it off the grade is solid.

Start on a cheater stone and start the under clinging traverse up and right.  Make your way to the jug just before the heart shaped hold and get a shake.  You get a few options from here.  Either stem the opposing wall making it much easier, go left up the big chalky jugs, or head right up the tricky face.  Either way its fun!

Hard start, especially for short people!  Use a cheater stone (if need be). I inadvertently stressed my arm for the second clip BECAUSE I did not see a small, positive clipping hold.  Look for a small pocket to clip from up and slightly left of the second bolt (maybe 50 cm).  The rest of the climb is a fun cruiser (although, watch your pump).

A phenomenal pocket-pulling boulder problem start leads to a horizontal seam and less interesting climbing on nondescript holds to reach the anchors. This route is well worth doing for the powerful, extremely satisfying moves in the first 20 feet.

Fun, steep moves on big huecos and underclings give way to balancy vertical climbing on some of the most hilariously artificial pockets I've ever seen. This is a good route for rainy days.

Tough moves from the moment you leave the ground till the 4th bolt then eases up.  Belayers need to be very attentive and watch for swinging climbers with frequent committing moves.

Tricky start with lots of jugs to the top.  route crosses two horizontal breaks as you climb.

Same 11c start as State of Panic, moving left into short crux above, then eases up quite a bit.  The difficult section is only a couple moves so the grade of 12c is pretty optimistic by a letter grade or two.

As with most of the main wall, the first few bolts happen to have the hard section. Might be worthwhile to stick clip the first/second bolt. After you get the bottom the rest is pretty comfortable with a couple of tricky moves. Plenty of rest spots on the upper half.

Start on high holds (may need to use cheater stones) and climb the steep arête. Tricky and sequency moves down low lead to powerful pocket pulling between bolts 3 and 5. Excellent route, with fluid and sustained movement. Too bad a couple of obviously manufactured holds keep this from being a classic.

This powerful route climbs the overhanging arete just left of "Limestone Cowgirl"  Stickclip the first few bolts and head up with big moves between good holds.  The powerful crux hits near the third bolt but more tricky moves lead to a the redpoint crux before getting on the finishing slab.  From here easier climbing leads to the anchors. 

  Rated 13b in the new guide, but felt easier.

Bats in the belfry is located in a large cove area to the left.  Windchill is around a bulge on the right.  The route angles up and left passing a horizontal break and through some pockets at the top. 

A great power outing if you can overlook the patched-up pock marks. (Route was previously bolted, drilled, poached, chopped, and largely filled in. Thereafter, the route was rebolted and the filled-in pockets were left unexcavated.) Please leave the route as is and do not make it easier by excavating the pockets.

Big moves on deep pockets are followed by slippery little crimps with bad feet to reach the ledge at bolt 3 and the end of the cruxy opening of this climb. Take advantage of this rest as there are still some solid 5.11 moves on small crimps guarding the anchor.

A stellar line and area classic. Probably one of the best 10s in the area, if not THE best.

Not one of the better lines on the right section of Main Wall.  Enhanced pockets lead to a forced line, that is squeezed next to "This Old Route".  The route start off fun with big pulls between big pockets on slightly steep ground.  Around the third bolt the good holds run out and you are forced to continue upwards usings some tweaky enhanced / drilled holds.  On the OS it may be difficult to not come close to converging with "This Old Route"  After this section better climbing with a surprisingly sustained nature leads to the anchors.  Much of the route is good, but the middle and it's closeness to neighboring routes detracts.

A strenuous start on fingery pockets leads up the the first bolt, where the route breaks right following a large flake.  Pull a few strenuous moves with bad feet to good jugs at the first horizontal break.  From here like many Main Wall routes the difficulty eases on the way to the anchors.

Similar to neighboring routes.  Pull through a no feet start to a boulder problem through a bulge.  Then continue up easier face to the anchor.

Bouldery start to long reach, lets up after the 4th bolt.  Stick clip first bolt.

Stick the second bolt, the first has been chopped, and head up for this dirty chossy and drilled tweak fest.  Also be careful of the wall not far behind you as you are climbing.  Challenging moves on drilled 2 finger pockets lead up over the bulge to a few natural holds.  Easier climbing leads to the anchors.

One of the best routes I have done at Main Wall this route may even be deserving of classic status.  Make a tricky move pulling out of the streambed and getting established on the wall.  Clip the second bolt and make a sweet dyno to a large jug, from here the business starts and fun sustained cranking takes you past the next few bolts to an eventual rest.  Climb easier lower quality rock to the anchors.  Watch out for the cactus and wall that will be behind you just as you finish up the crux section.  This is one of the more sustained lines on Main Wall, and I didn't come across any obvious chipped holds.

Super steep start going from an undercling to a baseball hold and the Swiss cheese pockets below the second bolt, followed by a scrunchy move getting your feet over the lip and throwing to the gigantic ledge. Beyond the ledge is low-angle, easy climbing to the shuts. Basically a fun boulder problem with a joke finish.

Head up steep underclings and pinches. The climbing starts out easy and gets progressively harder as you go.  Make a tricky move to obtain crimps at the lip of the roof and the fifth bolt.  Here pull a crux that starts out powerful and turns to balancy.  Expect to go past the anchors to clip them, allowing for some nice clean air if you blow it here. 

  This one feels easy to one-hang but is somehow difficult to put it together for the redpoint.  I believe this is in the guide as 12d, but feels softer. 

  Also despite the name, I didn't see any gluing or chipping on this one.

Steep start with many well chalked pockets.  Climb past two bulges to anchors.  Very fun but pumpy!

This is a somewhat contrived route found one line to the right of Pretty Pasties and two to the left of Bull in a China Shop. Its most notable feature is a gigantic undercling about two thirds of the way up. 

  Grab two jugs and pull on to the wall (cheater stones may help if you're under about 5' 10"), there's a fairly blank looking section but it's pretty true to the grade, continue climbing through an easier section to the anchors.

A great route that would be four stars if only it were more natural. 

  Pull the steep start out of the riverbed on sinker (chipped pockets).  Around the 4th bolt make an awesome move to the diving board.  Figure out what to do with your feet and continue upwards on two and three finger chipped pockets to a final throw to a ledge.  Continue up from here on easier ground.

Big powerful roof moves on a reasonably obvious line then follow the standard Jacks transition to thin crux moves, then eases up a couple number grades at the top.  The crux can be pulled by at least two methods, one almost straight up on pockets, the other just slightly right on a mostly invisible crimp/nub. Very likely easier than the posted grade of 12c/d but a decent amount of fun for 15 ft of hard climbing.

Start almost as for Genesis but climb slightly right to the first bolt.  Head up ever steepening ground on decent pockets, making a tricky move around the third bolt.  Pull on a few more good pockets and head into the crux, getting past the vertical section.  Pass this and it's easy going up to the anchors.

Nice and overhanging pocket pulling. Crux is off the deck.

A beautiful route. Good holds but technical body positioning lead you through the overhanging section to the thin crimps at the top. This is where most fall!

Pull a difficult awkward start getting out of the streambed and get a OK stance over the roof.  Head up on steepening rock on good holds to a  big move to a jug.  Stick the jug, make a big move right, then enter the tricky dihedral up the final slab.  While this final section isn't too hard there aren't many good holds so ignore the building pump and work the footholds to get to the anchors.

Fun short route with a few bouldery moves.  Start out of the streambed on fairly easy ground up to the second bolt.  Here the crux hits with some powerful moves passing an undercling, and a tricky move getting to the third bolt clipping jug.  From here things ease up to the anchors.

Start off a large boulder on a nice crimp sidepull.  From here make long reaches between chipped pockets, to obtain a resting jug and the third bolt.  From here the route stays sustained on thin holds to the anchors. 

  While this route offers good climbing, the entire bottom is almost all manufactured.

This route is an area classic and one of the few moderates on the main wall.  Fun to do as a warm up for Bats in the Belfry which is just right on the next wall.

Sun and Shade. Can be windy. For the most part 5.11 and up. Has one of the best 5.10's (Genesis) in the canyon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall