Start on the ledge 10’ right of The Arrow.

Guide’s Crack

Unknown bolted route

Two for One

Browbeater

Unknown Wide corner

Unknown face right

Nonlinear Equation

Unknown  2

Questionable Hummus

The Arrow

Moonwalk Right-hand variation

Unknown

The Clincher

Tricks Of The Trade

Blue Collar Holler

Moonwalk

Scramble up to the ledge to start.

Either do in two short pitches or one long pitch. Climb the face just right of the diagonal seam into a pink/brown colored face with good eyebrows. Continue up to a small overlap and then a seam protected by 2 bolts and gear. From the horizontal above, clip a high bolt and make cruxy eyebrow moves to good holds and more gear. Continue to the top past many cam placements (one short run on 5.9- terrain) and a 2 nut anchor shared with "The Arrow".

Rap twice using anchors on the Arrow out left at 90'.

Unknown if this has actually been freeclimbed (if not, probably never will)- it appears to be an abandoned/unfinished attempt at a free route. Several bolts lead to a bolt with a bail biner.

This is a wild new line that requires skill at two polar opposites in climbing -- thin slab and steep roofs. It combines parts of an older abandoned slab route (of mine), with a new more direct middle section and finally finishes on an old unknown roof crack (The roof crack was apparently done by Whitney H. & Max B. who came in from the right-hand corner and may or may not have aided the roof).

Start by manteling onto a crescent shaped feature and get a good hand size cam in the eyebrow. From here, move up and slightly right past the techy eyebrow crux (5.11 underclings) protected by a #1 and #0 tcu (in that order). From the ledge above, wander up the easier face past gear and 1 bolt. Note: If climbing with a 60 meter rope, stop and belay at the good horizontal.

The slab climbing gradually increases in difficulty, and is protected by 4 more bolts and one piece of gear. Once at the roof, move left to the obvious roof crack. The slab directly below the roof is often wet and mossy but don't worry -- you'll not be using your feet much from here on... Rail out the incredible roof (past hand size cams) to an anchor just below the hanging rhodo-garden (5.10-).

With a 70 meter rope: Lower in one pitch.

With a 60 meter rope: Break up into 2 pitches then have the leader lower from roof anchor to ground.

This is a fun short route that features some very techy climbing -- starting with an arete and ending in hard eyebrows. The hard moves are interspersed with decent stances at jugs, making for a pretty fun outing. It's best to do this line when the humidity level is on low!

Lieback the arete past a bolt and a deadpoint move to horizontal (#3 camelot here). Mantel up using strenuous underclings and clip another bolt. Make more undercling moves up to another horzintal and get a good cam. Move up and right then step back left to clip last bolt (crux). From here, make hard moves up and slightly left of bolt to a stance in the eyebrows and another cam. Easier climbing leads to a double bolt anchor.

P-1 Climb the right facing corner past some wideness and a couple of scary and seemingly loose chockstones up high. Belay and rap from tree ledge. I think the route continues up and right to the roof crack/rail, but above that details are uncertain.

Star slightly up hill from center, at a small rock ledge under a dead hemlock.

Climb the short corner features and face to a belay below a bulge about 100' up. Belay on finger size nuts or cams.

Pull the one move wonder bulge (10a maybe) to an easier face and follow the cleanest path up the slab to the top. Traverse left to the shared top anchor of the other routes.

P-1 Climb the wall past gear and 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.  The climbing above bolt 2 is moderate but slightly run out.

P-1 Climb the corner to a short face leading to a nut anchor.

Unsure of of P-2.

This is an alternate end to the Unknown 5.9. The crux is the steep slab just below the shallow roof.

P-1  Starts off of ledge about 50' up easy slab.  Climb several possible variations to a 2 bolt anchor at 100'.

P-2 Move right and climb the clean streak past 2 bolts and some gear to a an anchor consisting of 2 large nuts/hexes.

NOTE: Dennis says that this route bears a strong resemblance to a climb in the Gunks named "The Arrow".

About 20' right of the normal Moonwalk start under weird looking eyebrows and in front of a dead hemlock. Climb the eyebrows on gear, eventually merging slightly left and into the upper bolted face/slab of the regular route. Rap from anchor at top.

P-1  Climb the devious slab to a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet or so.  Use long runners as the pro is all over the place.

P-2  Continue up easier climbing to the top and locate a 2 bolt anchor.

NOTE: This route could be classic if it were cleaner, but lack of traffic has left it a bit on the dirty side in spots.

The start is the technical crux, with the rest of the route being fairly moderate at 5.9 or so.

P-1 Mantel the slopey ledge and clip bolt.  Make some techy slab moves slightly right to better holds and gear. Then climb the moderate face past 2 more bolts and gear to a belay at roughly 110'.  NOTE: there is a s/s nut anchor here for those just wanting to do the first crux pitch.

P-2 Continue to top via several variations (5.8ish).

Rap from bolts out right (another line).

P-1 Stick clip the first bolt.  Climb past this, which is the crux to easier ground protected by gear (small TCU up and left).  Continue past more gear and eventually another bolt up high to the same belay as for "The Clincher". There is a 2 nut bail anchor here if you don't want to climb the easier but excellent pitch 2.

P-2 Trend up and gradually rightward, ending at a bolt anchor at about 110'.

Boulder up to a small leaf-covered ledge.  Head up a corner crack until the chimney off-width can be protected with 3"-4" cams.  Thrash through the OW slot as best you can to gain a ledge just left of a rhodo thicket.  There is an optional belay here.  Next, use small cams and two bolts to do a delicate dirty eyebrow dance to a double bolt anchor.

Climb past steep eyebrows down low.  This eventually gives way to lower angle, much blanker slabbing past 2 bolts.  Rap from a two bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face/Guides Wall (Left side)