Airy, exposed and fun climbing on the left edge of the Super Slab wall. Highly photogenic. Bolt spacing is a bit wider than more modern sport routes this the route offers a rewarding mental experience for those stepping up to the challenge.

Super Arete

Clast Action

Full Sail

Oreo

Boltaneer

Nice and long, this route is a nice moderate up lower angle rock. A mini-crux from the start to the first bolt takes you to lower angle and easier climbing. The business comes (as all routes on super slab) when you pull through the bulge at the top.

Start up the steeper rock toward the center of the crag, levels out to lower angle. Then, over the bulge. Two ways 1) go slightly left for the easiest climbing (5.10a), the climb is .10+ or .11- if you continue straight up the bolt line. Longest route at El Rito.

Clark's guide says of "Oreo", "Hard moves at bottom and top, softer sweet stuff in between" and that's quite accurate. Thin moves to the first bolt if you go straight at it or start right-ish and move over to the bolt. Then 5.8-5.9ish monster jugs through the middle to a thin roof/bulge to finish.    The Foley "Taos Rock" book suggests to stem the start using the right wall and then to grab the chains for the finish--neither of which is necessary. For the chains-clip, just go a bit further and grab the right edge of the Super Slab wall.

Long route, as are all of the routes on Super Slab. Some sequency moves off the deck lead to some easy climbing through the less than vertical slab in the middle. The crux hits you at the overhang, where the number of holds diminish a the rock gets more steep and sequency. An enjoyable route.

South facing, this area gets morning sun, which tends to be nice on those chillier days. Climbs are generally low angle, and cruxes short one to two move wonders near the tops of the climbs. Has some decent moderates, however.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Super Slab