The Rubster takes you to the highest point of the rocks that form this section, and provides fine exposed face climbing on the second pitch.

1.  5.10b Climb the arete, either by laybacking the edge or using small crimps on the left side.   At the top of the arete move up the slab and climb the short face and slab up to the anchors.

2.  5.10a Climb up the slabby face to the obvious break just below the midway point.    From here continue up the steeper head wall to a precarious couple of last moves up to the spectacular summit.

The Rubster

Time to Shine

Unknown E

Unknown C

Fat Bastard

Unknown F

Make Haste or Tomato Paste

My First Time

Unknown D

Mini Me

Goldmember

Unknown B

Unknown G

Step Up or Ketchup

Unknown A

T.B.s

Crystal Tips

Unknown I

Unknown H

Climb the edge / crack on the left side of the pinnacle.   From the top of the crack move leftwards towards the back arete.    Pass the sapling then move up to the left arete.   Clip the bolt and step onto the wall.

Continue up the right side of the arete passing two more bolts to reach the flat summit of the pinnacle.

Start up the large features below the hanging slab.

At the end of the features get established on the slab with one good small edge for the right hand.

The moves up passed the 4th bolts are tenuous and required technique and good friction conditions.

From the 5th bolt continue directly to the anchors.

Start up a chimney/face and continue up the face to a horizontal hand crack.

Route E in Mammoth Area Rock Climbs book

The first crux is low down up to the first bolt.   Stay true to the face and don't stray into the crack on the left.

After the first bolt wander up the face to the break and mid height.   After the break the steeper climbing on the face above has some fun moves in a nice exposed position.

Start from the ground (not the boulder behind), and climb the vertical face via some fingery moves up to better holds at the second bolt.

From these holds continue up the wall with a few more sustained moves until a rail is reached.

Once at the rail cruse up to the anchors.

2 bolts protect the lower slab followed by another bolt that protects a mantle.

3 more bolts lead you up a slab/face to rap rings

Start on the wide ledge below the slab.   Using the rock on the right gain the slab and follow it with little trouble passing the first 5 bolts.  The slab steepens at the 6th bolt where the crux begins.

Make pleasant slab moves passing the next three bolts and then wander up to the anchors.

This climbs the huge huecos up onto the easy angle slab above.

Climb the thin face up to the second bolt.   Once clipped move up and right and follow the small incuts up to the anchors.

This route climbs through unique rock past 3 bolts. Shares top anchors with a harder climb to the right

Located between My First Time and Mini Me. A featured slab, to the right of a chimney, to a grainy finish.

Climb the left dihedral directly.

The first half is reasonably well protected with cams and wires, although the rock is a little suspect.

Higher the protection is harder to come by, unless you have a few large pieces.

First 2 bolts are super easy climbing Much like mini me or the first time routes here. 3rd bolt is easily gained at a large ledge. The 4th bolt is a little bit of a reach but not bad.

The crux imo is the heady top out. Once you gain the left crack on the mini head wall you can pull your left leg up and almost lie back up to a standing position before topping out. Not super difficult, but the last bolt is about 5 feet to your right so get ready for a ride if you don’t stick it.

Lastly I thought the anchor was a little close to the edge so rapping off the way you climbed kinda sucks.

​

Start below the short steep wall at the right end of the large slanting feature.

Climb up the wall to reach the wide crack that follows the feature up and left.   Follow this up to the 4th bolt.

Once the 4th bolt is clipped step up onto the slabby face and make delicate and engaging moves up and passed the next three bolts.

Continue traversing leftwards passed well featured rock until possible to climb up directly to the anchors.

Clip the first bolt and then using the left wall gain the slab above the bolt.   Continue up to the second bolt by stemming and then after the bolt move right onto the slab.

Climb directly up the slab passing numerous large huecos until a thin section at the last bolt allows the belay to be reached.

Start by climbing the long hueco like features.   When the features stop step up left and start to climb the face.

Climb the steepening face via some sharp small crimps until the angle eases and the hold size increases.   From here ease up to the anchors.

Climb the well featured wall just to the right of the crack. passing 6 bolts.

At the top of the slab reach up and left to clip the bolt on the wall above.   Make a high step to gain the concave wall above and traverse delicately leftwards across the concave wall.

Clip the last bolt then with another high step gain the slab above and the anchors shortly afterwards.

Climb directly up the water chute.

Steeper than it first appears.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Parking Lot Crag