The best moderate at Cedar-North by a wide margin. Climb up P1 of fancy feet edging your way up to the bolted belay. From the belay follow some weaknesses out to the right before cutting left on excellent brow/face climbing aiming for the splitter crack. Climb the great crack, tackle the brow laden bulge atop and slab it out to the second bolted belay.

Cut In The Rug

Southern Hospitality

Mr. Tumnus

Gay by Proxy

Un Named

Rain Dance

Native Dance

Lightning Flake

Bayne's Corner

Route of Northern Aggression

The Route of Passive Aggression

It's All Pink

Fancy Feat

Operant Conditioning

Black Swan

Where the Red Ferns Grow

Darkness on the Edge

Sex Is A Chore

Hemlock Graveyard

Power of One

Get in the groove

Luau In Your Mouth

Whodunnit

Flight of The Raven

Snot Nose

Micromanagement

Crack Cocaine

Raven's Arch

Cancel Culture

Ruthless

5.9 for the Tough Guy

Invasive Species

Forget Me Not

Gaskin/Cobourn

Pending Nuptials

The Fledgling

Media Whore

Vomiting Verglass

That's What She Said

Banana Peel

Fish Bowl

Rocket Boy

Northern Enclosure

Dandy Line

The Bump

Little Dickie and the No-No Zone

This is a high quality route that is probably as good as just about anything else at Cedar Rock.  The first pitch starts on "Native Dance" before the two lines diverge ("Native Dance" climbs the lower angle left diagonaling crack).

P-1

Climb the short easy corner to the easy face.  Gear protects the face that leads up to a line of 3 bolts ("Native Dance").  At the 3rd bolt move up and right past an optional shallow #0 TCU (out right) to gain the left facing crackless corner (see picture); plenty of gear is found in the eyebrows.  Climb this corner to a 2 bolt anchor just above a flake (hanging belay).  150'  5.10+

P-2

Climb up and left past a bolt (crux) to a stance and get gear out right.  Move up and right on amazing eyebrows past 2 more bolts and one last cruxy move to gain the easy slab that leads up and right to the same anchor as "Cut In The Rug".  70'  5.11

A bit dirty but does offer a bit of good slopey-crimpy-slabby climbing.  Follow the bolts through the most lichen free rock.

start at shallow scoop.  balance up some slopers past two bolts then it eases off to anchor shared with Black Swan.

Start below the overhanging dihedral that splits the Great Roof. Slab up and left to a right facing corner. Follow this feature to a bolt. Step right across the face aiming for a delicate flake. Pass another bolt as you trend up and right. Belay at double bolts just below the impressive dihedral.

Really cool steep pulls past bolt to gain steep right facing corner.  Move right to another bolt.  Clip and tiptoe right (crux) until you can move up to double bolt belay.  Pitch 2. 5.8  Up and slightly right.  Good holds and gear to a short run on easy ground to another 2 bolt belay.  Rap with one line.    Good Stuff!  Good to do in one pitch as well!

A good new route that has some surprisingly good holds. Probably the best warm up on the wall but still a bit spicy in places. More of a 5.10 for a 5.11 climber. Can be done in one long pitch, especially if using doubles, or in two short pitches.

Note: The upper section climbs just right of a prominent wet streak, but the route is unaffected.

Start same as for Native Dance/Invasive Species and climb about 30 feet up before moving left into flakes and past some vegetation on easy ground. From here move up to the wide left facing corner and get some gear (#4). Move up and right through overlaps to clip the bolt from jugs. Cruxy moves up will gain a stance and the eyebrow-laced face above. Follow the path of least resistance up and slightly left to the optional belay on nuts/cams. From here climb around the bulge and onto good ledge/flake above. Continue up the streak (save a #1 camelot for here) past mildly spicy pro to the double bolt anchor on the ledge near the top. The wall above the anchors is typically wet so rap from here.

To rappel with single line, rap down and right to thread on Native Dance. This also keeps your ropes out of the water to the left.

This is an excellent face and crack pitch and was the first route up this section of North Cedar.

Pitch 1: (120 ft) Scramble up the chimney onto the face and climb past 3 or 4 bolts then traverse left and up short crack system.  There may be fixed gear at the end of the crack to use as an rap anchor but back this up with natural pro for belaying.  Excellent pitch. Go do it.

Pitch 2: (150')  (warning: bolt missing)

This pitch was climbed directly to the top with one move of aid on a bolt.  The rest of the pro was mostly shallow TCUs and stoppers.   The bolt was removed (hangers were not readily available at that time and I used it elsewhere). I plan to revisit this pitch this year.

A solid route with a bit of hollow rock on it, but nothing is going to break off if you are thoughtful about how you yard on things. The route gets a bit steep through the big flake section.

Start on the mossy boulder behind the tree and step up and left onto the face. Aim for the flakes. This route is almost all flakes. Collect the flakes.

At the biggest, baddest flake of them all, follow it right, stepping onto the face of the flake when convenient (partway through a lie-backey section). At the top walk left on what feels like a sidewalk to the bolted anchors below the roof.

Climb the big blocky corner on climbers right of the big overhang.  A tad on the thruchy side of things and the crack is dirty.

This was the first route to crack the roof.  Some folks think pitch two will go free at 5.13, but then again, maybe not.

1.At left end of large roof band, climb fun 5.10 face to a belay shared with Gay By Proxy.

2. Follow the bolt ladder out the roof to the right to a hanging belay.

3. Climb a difficult, steep water groove to a bolted belay 5.11.

4. You can continue up lichen slab, 5.4 if it is dry, to the top if you want and hike out right on a trail of sorts. Or rap the route. Two ropes needed for that option.

It's amazing that this line actually went free. Even more amazingly it goes at a reasonable grade. Fun and diverse climbing with good rests past each hard section make this a very worthy route for the grade. The route is either 11d or 12a, I don't know...

P-1 Either climb Bayne's Corner (9+) or Micromanagement (11c) to the same anchor.

P-2 Climb the obvious dihedral past 2 bolts and a small cam to a good hand jam rest. Clip a bolt above and continue up the brow-laced water streak to a pocket (gear) to the horizontal break. Move right here and pull bulge just left of the right-hand groove to another bolt. A couple more techy moves get you onto the slab and easy climbing past one more cam and bolt to an anchor. It's possible to lower from here to the ground (100') to belay your second if you'd like. Rap at 100' with one rope.

Climb/smear/edge scrubbed holds through the moss field to a belay below the small roof.  Second pitch is planned.

This was the first free line through the amazing headwall (BB's Native Dance was the first line), and the one that opened the gate to several excellent routes above.

While the whole route is fun, pitch one is the lesser quality intro pitch, with pitch two being the money pitch. Unfortunately it's somewhat overshadowed by the crack of "Cut In The Rug" just to the left.

P-1 (intro pitch)

Climb to a ledge and wander up a brief section of blocky (hollow) terrain to a line of bolts. Climb past 3 bolts to an optional #0 TCU (hidden a couple feet above bolt). Continue up past a #1 TCU slot to the 4th bolt. Make bouldery eyebrow moves to gain a horizontal rail (small cam here for traverse)and then move right to the belay.

P-2 (money pitch)

Climb up and right to the stance where "Cut In The Rug" diverges left. From here, move up and right following weird grooves/cracks and jugs to a line of bolts that lead through the eyebrow-laced face and to a groove. Climb groove past a funky shallow finger size cam to easier terrain and the anchor up and left.

Mostly moderate climbing with several surprise features and envelope slots for gear.

P1: 5.10b 100 ft. Climb past two bolts placed close together over the crimpy crux, traverse right for a few pieces of gear, sling the tree, then up a 5.7 face to a gear belay in the bowl.

P2: 5.9- 100+/- ft. Head up and left of the bowl passing great gear and an undercling move. At about 70 feet up, you can traverse left for the Black Swan P1 anchors, or continue another 30-40 feet up and right of the Black Swan Anchors for a gear belay in any of the cam eating eyebrows.

P3: 5.7 100 ft Continue up the moderate face passing one bolt (believed to be placed on P2 of Black Swan) then a nasty mossy section with easy climbing to slings on a tree.

P2 and P3 can be combined but rope drag is an issue.

Crux is right off the ground. Sporty climbing to the first bolt. Climb through eyebrows to a double bolted belay. Most parties rappel from here, but a second pitch is possible

Great two pitch climb on the north side in a secluded area.  The meat of the climb is really the middle of the first pitch.  P1 - Carefully step and mantel up onto a ledge to clip the first bolt (watch out for the ferns).  Then dance your way up to slightly easier ground, passing another bolt.  At the third bolt, decipher the steep slabby crux to run out terrain before reaching another bolt.  Continue up a water groove to anchors.  P2 - Climb up easy ground to anchor.

Climb the acute corner feature sort of in the middle of the wall. Crux is getting off the ground. Protects well throughout. There is a second pitch that climbs the steep slab above the corner.

Pull onto a tender flake.  Face climb up and slightly right to fleshy overlapping bulges.  Pull hard direct or step to right then do a reach around.  Finish in a bowl. A soft start leads to a stiff finish.

Climb the usually wet and mossy left leaning corner to bolted anchor.

1. Climb moderate face past two widely spaced bolts to a small bowl with bolted anchor.  5.9.

2. Crux is leaving bowl then it gets easier as you approach anchor.

P-1 Start by climbing the first pitch of "Fancy Feat". 5.11- Note: it might be possible to link the first two pitches.

P-2 Short but fun. It is necessary to reduce drag as it's mostly a traverse to gain the groove on pitch 3. Climb "Groove Thang" to the start of the vertical groove section. There are 2 bolts and gear up to a # 2 camelot to this point. From here move right along a sloping shelf past a piece of gear or two and mantel up to an anchor. 5.10d/11a.

P-3 Climb the groove to the top and the anchor for Northern Aggression. The start is quite hard and insecure (maybe 11b) but can be easily aided. Once in the groove it's excellent 9+/10- groovin' to the top past 4 bolts and cams up to a # 2 camelot. 5.11b or 5.10 A0

Smear/edge/grope your way up the map of nice holds through the moss field.  Belay below roof.

An improbable-looking steep slab/face that starts off the right end of a ledge below a bolt.

Climb out right to low bolt then up past a #0.75 camalot to another bolt. Make thin moves on underclings and a key hidden edge to gain a stance and more gear. Continue up a few thinn moves (optional shallow #1 TCU) to stance and more small TCUs. Move up into a shallow bowl feature and get gear. A bolt above the bulge protects the last hard section. Continue up easier terrain to the anchors on the "Unnamed 5.10".

You can barely rap back to the starting ledge with one 60 meter rope (do not try to lower).

Short like all routes under the big roof, but it climbs a fun edgy face between two water streaks and gains a good view of a potentially hard second pitch to Bayne's Corner.

Climb past a pocket to a line of 4 bolts up the brown and white slab.

From the last bolt, move up through a band of funky schist and a finger size cam to the ledge with a double bolt anchor.

Climb first pitch of Power of One.  From belay ledge, climb up and left to a bolt, then go straight up to bolted anchor.

This is a short but very techy bit of slab climbing. It gains the anchor of Bayne's Corner. Easily top-ropable from the anchors. Can also be used as a single-pitch link-up for the Route of Passive Aggression, but if you do, be prepared for rope drag. Best to do in 2 pitches.

Start on the mossy apron and climb moderate terrain past a first reachy bolt (added 10/21). A stiff draw or short stick would make the easy but is not necessary; it was placed high to protect the next mantel move. From bolt 2 there are just enough edges to keep the climbing doable by normal humans. Thin moves get you to the next bolt where you'll want to start trending right a little. Follow good edges up to the anchor. The end is spicy but reasonable (and safe) if you follow the edges.

From the anchor in the bowl, climb all of the left leaning crack, then head straight up the face to a bolted anchor.

Climb the thin face past some bolts and gear with a little assistance of the shallow dihedral/flake.

Smear your way up the face past three bolts and some gear into the large bowl.

Climb between the grooves passing several bolts and perhaps some gear to a bolted anchor.  Or climb the grooves.  Take your pick.  Named because our buddy James Ruth could not join us this day.

Carefully crimp and edge your way to a high first bolt.  Balance your way past some thin climbing and a couple more bolts before finally getting something to hold onto.

Climb the outside face of the buttress of Darkness.  Did end at tree.  New bolted anchor above now.

Start at an undercling, then hit some technical face moves passing a high bolt.  It eases off then and goes to anchor shared with Vomiting Verglass.

Smear and edge up the face.  The flake you see is very fragile, so don't bother with gear.  There are currently two belays.  Stop at lower one until we get one more bolt in.  Second pitch may come along soon.

This is (probably) the last independent line to be done below the large overhang. Longer and more interesting that it may look, this is a good (and safe) slab route for leaders new to 5.10 terrain.

Climb past 3 bolts on smears and some very good edges to the base of the rotten band, which is actually pretty solid on this line. A cam or two in this section protects the last moderate bit to a 2 bolt anchor under the roof.

Some delicate smears right off the ground lead to a left leaning crack feature which you follow into a large bowl. Next you step right to a bolt.  Go straight up featured rock passing one more bolt then make a run to the bolted anchor up high.

Climb the usually wet crack, then keep going up face past a bolt to a bolted anchor.

A frictiony boulder problem start is protected by a bolt.  After that sequence, go up and left to a right trending series of holds to an anchor at 80 feet.

Originally thinking this line would be much harder, we were very plesantly surprised at how great the eyebrows were up high. If this were a longer route it'd definitely get 4 stars. Very much like climbing at Looking Glass with wild brows on steep stone.

P-1

Climb onto a small ledge just above the ground to place your first piece - yellow tcu size out right. Boulder out to good holds and a bolt, then up to a stance. Move up and right onto the eyebrow laced face and climb past buckets and a few slopers. The face is protected by 2 bolts and cams up to a # 2 camelot. A final bit of steep brow climbing gains a slab that leads to a 2 bolt anchor at about 80'.

P-2

Climb a short steep wall on cool holds past a bolt to easier terrain. Slightly runout climbing gets you past a couple more placements to the top and a 2 bolt anchor just below the trees.

P1.  Smear past a low bolt to a stance.  Continue up past another bolt then a nice ledge.  Easy climbing leads past a third bolt.  Then decide which way to go to the anchors.

P2.  Dirty climbing to rusty anchors (we passed).

This is a second Pitch to either Media Whore or Smear The Queer.  From the bolted anchor in the bowl, climb up the crack feature to a bolt.  Go straight up to bolted anchor.

Climb up past a small tree on a ledge.  Slab up to a very hollow sounding flake.  Skip putting in gear and clip a higher bolt.  Continue to anchor.

Gorgeous, continuous crack feature that is often running with water. But when it isn't, it is one of the best 5.8 handcracks around.

The crux is early.  Find the bump and use it to surmount the steep section, then slab up using groove and face to the top.

Smear thru mossy stuff to decent gear at tiny roof 20 feet up.  Step right and grab the namesake hold to pull the move.  Clip bolt at ledge then launch up good holds passing some gear.  The holds get slopey to the small roof.  Pull it on great quartz crystals to the bolted belay.  Need two ropes to rap.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cedar Rock - North