A powerful, bouldery start with tricky footwork takes you through three bolts and the crux before easier, blocky terrain above.

Holds have been broken off at the start of this route. Originally rated .12a, it is quite a bit harder now.

Bear's Choice

The Bear Crack

Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack

Rusty Razor

Stone Free

Treasure Island

Kidnapped

Swallow My Pride

Drunken Sailor

Wayne's World

Jekyll and Hyde

Ursa Major

Just Bearly

Dirty Paws

Polar Bear Spire

Gold Doubloons

Brazin

Bear Cub Crack

Choss Factor 3

Martian Landscape

Bear Fingers

Jason and the Argonauts

Mark's Moderate

Pieces of Eight

Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear)

Silverado Squatters

Kill Uncle

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete)

Body Snatcher

Kodiak

Old And In The Way

Bear Arete

Uncle Tom

Grigio

Moonshine

Freestone

Beast of Burden

The Beast

Smash n Grab

Rampage

Napa Valley Party Service

Old Ghost

NE Butt Chimney

Black Hole Sun

Old and In the Way... where to start?  Might as well be at the first bolt.  The first bolt is tricky and delicate to clip, that big chalked up rail is sadly not as good as it looks.  Holding on with one hand with grim feet is a challenge.

But the action starts right after you make the clip!  Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.

I'll come clean.  I led this climb, but it wasn't clean.  I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw.  The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c.  The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.

Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.

This is THE crack climb in North Bay (which isn't saying much). It features hand and fist crack climbing, with some lie-backing, wideness, and good exposure. There's an old Star Dryvin bolt half way up. Don't clip it. Instead put a good 2.5" cam in the crack then fire the crux.

Climb the obvious diagonal undercling crack left of Waynes World, joining and crossing that route then continuing straight up the crack to the top of the cliff. Belay and rappel from bolts/slings in a corner.

Starting on the right side of the main rock of the bear, this is the last climb on the 1st pitch. Crux is a traversy move between the second and third bolts that's more balance than power. Beware the the prominent roof above the 3rd bolt is hollow, and is REALLY loose on the right side. This section is run out, but is probably only 5.8 or so.

Bolts on the upper section have been removed due to fire damaged rock. Stay off the roof feature and the entire block above it. Bolts have been redirected to the right and now join Kodiak crack.

This line begins on NVPS, sharing its crux and first bolt then continuing straight up through five more bolts. Step right to finish on Stone Free anchor. The route requires intriguing body tension movement and an improbable thin crux with big movement up a steep wall. A bit harder and more sustained than neighboring Stone Free.

POST FIRE UPDATE: Much loose rock was cleaned off Treasure Island after the fire. The climbing is slightly more difficult, more sustained, and arguably better than before. Clipping the fourth bolt is a bit more spicy. The first bolt was replaced and others are undamaged. It SHOULD be good to go but be careful and be cautious of loose rock! (Dodrill, Feb, 2018)

Start at a wide flare and do a big reach up and right to the first bolt. A few reachy moves through jugs takes you to the second bolt. Avoid the blocks off to the right.  Continue up, trending left past a total of five bolts, a few hidden jugs, and a big finish to anchor chains above a ledge.

Brutal crimp fest on amazing gold colored marble/quartz stone. Thin. Technical.

Warm up with awesome views

Try the 10a/b alternate left start, and TR Bear Cub crack on same anchor

Wayne's World, a great movie in it's day but not a great route! I was tempted to bomb it such was my hatred, but my parter liked (!!) it (on toprope of course!) so I gave it a star.

It's on it's own separate tower at the Bear crag. The start is ok, off vertical delicate moves that feel like slab moves, but you're pulling on sharp positive sidepulls and sanding on small pointy feet.

Pull a bulge after 5th bolt, and wander up some low angle gully for a bit. The bolt line felt contrived to me through here, even though I hate calling things contrived.

On to the upper wall, I again stayed right of the bolt line. From the ground, you may spy a quicklink on the 7th bolt. I suspect this may be a semi-permanent bail feature because it's where things get downright nasty. There is a shallow pocket, a small roof, and another pocket up higher and to the left. How you connect these features is a mystery to me, I couldn't find any feet that would stick and ended up pulling through on the draw. Things ease a tad up higher, but the climbing is still thin and difficult.

Maybe I just want to bomb it because it was called .10b/c in the guide I had, which it is definitely not. I don't know if it is .12a, (EDIT: Changed to .11b/c with info from FA) but the move is very thin and difficult. There are several red scars around the crux, so key holds may be gone.

Party time? Noooot!

Excellent? As if!

The top of this route is a little run out, and the rock is sharp enough that a 20 foot fall wouldn't be fun.The crux is either after the 2nd bolt or the 3rd bolt, depending on how tall you are.

I would recomend that you avoid the temptation to go right on the flake after the 3rd bolt. Instead, keep going up, and you'll see the next bolt a little past a bulge.

Climb the Guillotine Crack (Ursa Minor) and clip  a bolt or two on Waynes World, then cut left and traverse out the obvious diagonal slash/wide crack to the top of Polar Bear Spire. Continue up the slab to a set of chains. Watch for rope drag and loose rock. (option: start on Waynes World then cut left)

Link up route. Clip first 6 bolts of Wayne's World, a few bolts of Martian Landscape, then finish on Guillotine Crack (pro to 4”). Lower from the new Guillotine Crack/Martian Landscape anchor.

Pro - 10 bolts plus #3 and #4 cam

Steep, long moves gain lower angled seams for a rest, then climb a big bulge with pockets (enhanced?) to a chain anchor. Lower off.

(Bolted around 2001)

Arghhh Matey ! Here is the crusty brother climb of “Pieces of 8.” Anyone remember the Hardy Boys Mystery series ? I’m dating myself… Anyway. Those old enough to know what that is (or not !) may want to find the gold. They will have to suss out the thin but well-protected face moves above the initial bouldery start ! Cruise through the center section to face a 2nd crux near the anchor… makes for a long thought-provoking pitch!

Brazin as in zinfandel. The tallest route in the Vineyard, a bit of a power endurance line. Off the bat, bouldery moves, V3/4 in difficulty. From there it eases up until reaching the 3rd bolt where you will encounter the second crux. Then climb the the faint arete to the right to the anchors. From the ground the line goes up diagonally left to right.

This seldom climbed but decent and fun crack is at the far right edge of the Waynes World formation. Climb the crack, belay at a small tree. Rappel from the tree (bring slings) or walk off to the right.

This is the crack at the left end of the cliff. Clip the first two bolts of Kidnapped/Jekyll and Hyde and follow the finger/thin hand crack diagonally up to the left over a bulge to Kidnapped's chains on a ledge.

This route may have been climbed a long time ago. I climbed it in 1996 and put in the anchor in 2003.

Starts to the right of the diagnol crack that the Beast (11b) moves across.  Jason and the Argonauts begins with opposition moves on a very overhung face past the first two bolts.  The steepness eases off as you pull a two-finger pocket past the third bolt, then technical face moves bring you to the fourth bolt and the climbing eases off as you finish the route.  Burly.

Mark's Moderate begins in the very obvious wide crack in the center of the Bear.  Easy chimneying brings you past the first few bolts until the crack gets narrow enough to require a little thought.  After the fourth bolt, head a little right to meet the 3 bolt anchor.

The second pitch is pretty fun.  It heads straight up from the anchor past three bolts, then follows an overhung crack on a very featured face.

To the right of the crack, the rock is very lose. There's also a lose side-pull block near the third bolt. So be careful and very aware if there are people at the base of the bear.

Tricky start leads to gold hueco, and exciting finish

Theodore Roosevelt starts from a two-bolt anchor above the first pitch of Mark's Moderate, but left of the Mark's Moderate anchors.  The climb wanders up some slab before pulling a small bulge and then finishes on easier climbing.  The anchors are about 20 feet back from the edge of the bear on a right-facing piece of rock.

Big moves between jugs on overhanging rock describe this route, which climbs up the steepest part of the cliff. Start left of the tree stumps at the base of an obvious left-leaning crack. Avoid the blocks out left, climbing directly up solid yellow and white quartzite up to and over the roof. Finish up the finger crack to the anchor (option: step right at the last bolt of Rampage). The crux is above the second bolt. A good warm up.

Kill Uncle is located just left of the center arete problem on the Bear.  You can start by traversing left over a bush towards the first bolt for a 12b variation.  It involves pumpy pulls with few feet until you meet the normal route.

The normal route involves a traverse to the second bolt from the arete.  Use of underclings and big moves get you past the next two bolts, then the climbing eases as you finish up at the anchors.

Located just left of the Mark's Moderate chimney/crack in the center of the Bear, this arete has some really fun moves with big holds on steep rock.  After the third bolt, the climb moves onto the crystal-filled face to the left of the arete.  Don't know why it doesn't have a name, but it deserves one.

Sustained vertical face climbing leads past 7 bolts up and left to an exciting finish. Route is somewhat gritty in places but also has some great features, including some interesting horizontal pockets about halfway up.

I’ve spent a fair amount of time over 10 years re-visiting this route to check the condition of the bolts and to clean the annual accumulation of loose crumbly rock around the route. The Rock quality here is generally less than some of the more popular climbs 100 ft. to the left on the main face. As the route has seasoned through fire and flames and many winters the holds feel sharper and the climbing is as bold and technical as ever. It’s not a friendly route for the grade, and feels rather desperate and so it has it’s haters. Thats fine. I will continue to defend this climb against the haters and appreciate the efforts by many commenting here who have truly taken on the challenges of this somewhat devious climb. Eric Berghorn 12/25/20.

This is the four bolt (brown hangers) direct start to the Bear Arete. Climb steep seams to a ledge. Lower off chains at base of Bear Arete, or continue up that pitch (you may want to skip the fourth bolt to reduce rope drag).

The Bear Arete is the right-most climb on the second pitch of the bear.  The climb is pretty straight-forward until the second bolt, where it seems that there are plentiful holds to the right, yet they don't go anywhere.  Conversely, there are a few less generous holds on the left that will have to suffice.  I don't know if we did it right, but we did an up-and-left dyno after the third bolt... it was tough and weird, but fun none-the-less. My main complaint about the route was the lack of traffic it has seen.  There was a bunch of loose rock that we knocked off, and moss that covered many important grips and decreased their utility.  This also caused the grips to be chock-free, which made the climb seem harder, and more confusing, but more interesting as well!

Start to the right of Kill Uncle on Lower Arete and traverses into and continues on Kill Uncle after the first bolt. The traverse is probably the crux of this variation. Going left at the 3rd bolt gives a mellow finish; whereas, trying to go directly up or slightly right at third bolt bumps up the grade to 11d or 12a.

What it lacks in height, it makes up for in quality. A blank looking, vertical face that is easier than it looks. Fun technical moves; the holds are there but you probably wont see any chalk on them. Starts above a stump, which may or may not have branches growing from it. In the shade all afternoon long.

The direct start to Old Ghost. Climb up to the spine feature through the first two bolts to gain a left hand pinch and wide, right hidden gaston. From here use magic or even a mano to get to a decent hold to clip the third, first perma-draw, then power through one final bouldery sequence to the anchors.

Freestone... tiny town, great bakery. Stone Free, a one time Bear classic which didn't make it through the fire in one piece..

Finding a way to avoid the section of fire damaged rock up high became imperative and a new line was located... moving right at the 4th bolt of Stone Free and around the arete onto Kodiak. Just after this point is where the contrivance begins.

At the 6th bolt (glue-in) the idea is to make a big move to a sinker 3 finger pocket out in the middle of the wall next to Smash n Grab. From there, more pockets put you onto the semi steep prow of white and orange quartz (I include EB in the FA since he climbed this section at one time as a possible way to do SnG..)  3 more bolts get you to a rams horn anchor.

Aside from the obviously forced nature of the line, this side of the Bear has always suffered from particularly crappy rock. Starting with the fun but snappy crux down low, onto the entirely suspect Kodiak and then finishing up on hollow buckets to the top, this route will be forever exfoliating.

Early poll returns range from contrived and chossy to fully classic.. time and traffic will determine whether or not this route gathers chalk or cobwebs..;)

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, the entire point of establishing this line as it is,  was to provide a long and somewhat difficult alternate 1st pitch to the stellar upper section of Smash n Grab. Doing these two 11d  pitches should prove to be a classic St Helena adventure!

The Beast starts just left of the hand crack on the left side of the Bear.  Climb past 2 bolts, employing lots of lateral movement then go over the diagnol crack and continue up past the crux and two more bolts until you reach the finish.  The moves are constantly interesting and make you think.

Originally called The Gong Show because of the hollow sounding flakes, this route has over time become known as The Beast. Start on the obvious, steeply overhanging hand crack, slam in a #1 or #2 Camalot and keep moving to the first bolt (optional add'l gear). This is pretty bouldery for a crack. Clip both bolts above, climbing through a sequential crux, and run it out on jugs to the anchor. Blow it up there and you'll get some nice air time.

This was .11b until some holds broke. Its not much harder now, but more sustained. There are some hollow flakes.

P1- Start by climbing up a 5.7 featured stemming corner for about 25 feet, gaining a good stance on top of a small ledge. From there you can clip the first of 11 bolts, moving straight up through the head wall replete with awkward liebacking on hidden holds. There are a couple of ways you can go when climbing through the overhanging first section of the route. The most direct option is 5.11 a/b.

P2- Gain the low-angled sloping ledge clipping the optional rappel/belay anchor above it. If climbing the route in one pitch continue straight up past more 5 bolts climbing carefully above the mid-anchor into a steep, awkward corner slightly right of the bolt line. Be careful here as you are climbing above a ledge out of view from your belayer. The 5.11d moves are protected, however, too much slack here could result in a ledge fall. Powerful moves combined with thin awkward face climbing lead to some good pockets/jugs and a decent rest before tackling the crux. After a good rest stance above the crux, the top section eases off slightly but offers some thoughtful moves on yet another vertical section before a good ledge and the anchor are reached. Use long slings when appropriate to reduce rope drag if climbing the route in a single pitch.

Rampage!!!!

This is sport climbing. Slightly overhanging wall, big holds, big moves!  Head up out of the tree, pull a bulge, pinch some tufas, dream of Spain, head left and up to the shuts.  A crag highlight for sure!

Bolted on the tight side of necessity to avoid a fall into the tree.  A great lead for those looking to break into the grade.

Napa Valley Party Service starts on two triangular thin crimps, moves up a couple holds to a diagonal crease that goes up left under a blocky bulge.  Low crux, once you get up higher the rock turns into highly featured coral like blobs that are covered in jugs.

The hardest line in the Vineyard. Essentially a 25 ft V7. Shares the first 2 bolts with Brazin then bears left climbing into the two perma-draws. fVery powerful and sequential crux on small holds guard the anchors.  Possibly 5.12c if you use the knee to mitigate the crux, first ascensionist did not use knee bar. Best in afternoon shade.

Located just to the right of the prominent chimney "Mark's Moderate." The rock on the route is black on some parts, and quite light on others. The crux is getting over the bulge right after the 3rd(?) bolt. Requires a fun yet bizarre move.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Bear