This is a route that is toproped from

The Mad Scientist's

anchors. Instead of following the bolts for

TMS

, go straight at the anchors directly from below them. Start in the gully that is easy climbing. Face the more vertical wall with the right-facing ledge above, and this requires a bit of smearing. The crux is the same as

TMS

but is left of the bolts and can be more challenging if you stay away from the flake to the left. Then, it's easy sailing to the TR from above the flake.

Mad Scientist Variation, The

Electric Swimming Pool

The Mad Scientist

Pike's Peak

The Mantel of the Leprechaun

This the 3rd route from the left on Sayers' Wall. It has the obvious start in the middle of the wall. It involves smearing with good protection. It seems hardest at the start. Move up and left until a solid finish up to the anchor. This is a solid climb and is worth doing.

This is a good route; there is no defined "crux" per se/em> except for a portion about 45-50 feet up, in which you have to be handless for a minute. The downside is the route is relatively new, and not very well cleaned; a lot of the handholds break off at rather unfortunate times.

This is a great, fun route just to the right of

Pikes Peak

. There is a long run out to the first bolt, and be prepared to smear, but it is a great climb. The crux comes on a steep slab near the 5th-6th bolt area.

This is an easy route for this grade; it could potentially be rated at a 5.9+, but it is a 5.10a/b due to a tricky start and a tough series after a big ledge about halfway up. It is easy to go to the side on the harder portions to make it easier, although this destroys the rating. It is a great warm-up climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sayers' Wall