Sit start on the shared starting jug shield as for XXX (Turned the opposite direction). Traverse out right on a couple crimps, sidepulls, jugs, and pinches with rather poor feet, working towards the higher dihedral. Once established on obvious holds in the middle of the dihedral work straight up to better holds for the easier top out.

I start with both hands on the top of the shield with left heel on the lower part of the shield, which is opposite the standard start for XXX (hands low, heel high).

Triple Sex

Iron Chuff

Cuisan

Start on two good incut edges at the bottom of the roof. Decide on your beta, then traverse left on slopey holds to gain better holds before an engaging, but not so difficult top out.

Two low start options exist that bump the grade up a fair bit. Either sit start underneath on a couple bad holds, or start on the far right side and traverse in.

Start left hand on sharp incut crimp and right on low pinch. Use heal-toe cam to move up small crimps on face to slopers above. Top out directly above start.

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