A thought provoking two pitch line that follows the jug lined arete up through a massive overhang. P1 (5.12a): A short pitch that can be approached two ways. The direct start below the jugs is powerful and recommended. Alternatively, starting left of the arete in the shallow dihedral presents an awkward crunchy sequence that traverses right towards the arete. Once on the arete, enjoy a short section of jugs and top out on the ledge at a two bolt anchor. 5 bolts, bolt anchor.

 P2 (5.11a): Follow the dihedral upwards past a pin beneath the huge roof. Hand traverse to your right past a bolt and pull the exposed lip protected by the second and last bolt. Follow an easy crack system up and right to a bolt anchor.

Second Adam

Hello Kitty

Dead Dog

Green Eggs and Spam

Not the Momma

Break in the Battle

Hells Angels

Bazooka Bubble Gum

Dunamis

Perelandra

Energemata

Freedom From Fear

Swamp Thing

Stray Dog

Flying Dog

Arkansas Roofs 101

China Doll

Inherit the Wind

Carhartts Recommended

Vertical Taco

Whiff of a Dead Dog

Holy Smokes!

Doggy Style

Frosted Flakes

Renewed Mind

Mindless

SAMCRO

A free variation of "Prince of Light"-A2 . Begin with Second Adam's first anchor, head up the stem box, then left out the roof on a good hand crack/rail until your feet are settled in the large hole. From here follow rails out the roof, clipping two bolts. Beware the hold at the lip. If it is wet; DON'T CLIMB IT!! It may break. A fun route with big air. A moderate final pitch goes directly up off a set of anchors.

Enjoyable. Rock quality is good if you stay on route. Route name came from daughter's toothbrush used to clean out bolt holes.

One of the best sport climbs in the area comprising a slight overhang, smooth holds, continuous movement, a true top-out, a hint of a rest, and a touch of route finding in the form of hold selection. Pull up unto the orange band of rock, traverse right to the first bolt, and float endless crimps to the summit ledge.

Climb the chimney to the base of the offwidth roof.  Pull through, remembering the wall behind you, on to easier terrain above.  Pulling another offwidth roof and slopey face gets you the the top of this big route.

Either grovel through an easy flare or climb low angle crimps to the pod below the first large overhang. Using jugs work up and then out to the lip on the first overhang on mostly good holds, turning the first roof into a good stance. Scramble up underneath the splitter offwidth/squeeze looming above. Work available feet, sparse hands, and a chicken-wing to leverage to the edge of the crack. Pull the strenuous crux moves to surmount the squeeze and cruise moderate wideness to the top. 

This double roof crack earns its name. Battle through a wide roof crack with deep jams. Take your break. Then finish the battle through another roof crack before the finish.

Adventurous climbing on steep angles.  

  Cruise up the easy start into some steep terrain where you make a big swing out a small roof. From here grab some wildly unique jugs and mantle onto a small ledge. 

  Fire up pumpy terrain into cruiser jugs up top. 

Rocks rather soft on this route in places.

Climb the easy, but slightly fragile start, to an interesting roof with big moves on more solid incuts and ledges. Finish at anchors just over the lip. This is a nice bouldery route and an easy warm-up for other 5.11s and 5.12s in the area.

Get established in the base of the flaring corner crack and struggle through a couple off-width/chimney moves before being relieved of duty by an abundance of face holds on either side. Alternatively, stem.

A fun and I'd imagine often-overlooked route. Start on the Sam's Special choss then work good holds through the steep. Make desperate moves to gain the face then clip the 4th and surprisingly final bolt. The hard part's over but don't pump off those chickenheads as you run it out to the anchors.

Climb the chimney, pulling left around the corner when you can.  Climb the handcrack over a bulge and top the top as it gets a little wider.  Good rock.

Stem a flaky, licheny, mossy start on a couple of okay holds and slopers through a thin crack that eventually becomes a hand crack. Works the short hand crack and wide stems out to the roof. Hit a fist jam or two along with okay jugs to transfer out onto the left face, using a couple pumpy moves the crux ends above the roof. From here a fun wide flare takes you to a good belay tree up top.

Climb decent rock in a crack to the roof.  Pull the roof and continue on much better rock in a crack to the top.

A fun line up an attractive arète. Start in a clean casual dihedral and step left towards the first bolt.

Low crux on thin holds, make a few more hard moves on edges till it eases up the higher you move. 

  Superb moves on relatively beautiful sandstone

Climb the fistcrack 20 feet to the base of the roof.  Climb through the roof using the crack and any holds around.  Continue in the crack to the top on less steep terrain.  Good 1st 10 trad lead at Sam's.  Good rock and pro.

Climb the crack in the dihedral through decent rock.  Pull a roof on good rock and continue to the top out in the dihedral crack.

Climb the sweet face, following the bolts.  After the bolts, climb the vertical crack, heading up and left to top out.  Great rock.

Awesome and unique chimney climbing for Arkansas! Climb the strenuous chimney to some good feet, where it eases up past the second bolt. From here follow two more bolts and wiggle through the body sized hole to the anchors. Adventurous for a sport climb! 

Climb juggy yet questionable rock to loose plates and a horizontal crack below the lip of an overhang with a nice hand crack lingering above. Place strenuous pro in the horizontal and make the move pulling over the lip into the crack. You reach a ledge with an overhanging 2nd crux at the top. Nest some extended gear and go for it.

Great OW route with interesting moves to keep you from falling out of the crack. If you can't find em', keep digging for those great fist jams, they are there. If you start falling out, turn that foot!

Came across this route last weekend, no one seemed to know where it came from so posting to MtnProj to get more info happening! Bolts look fresh. First two bolts identified in pic, rest are guesstimates.  

 Scramble up to the ledge and pull on big jugs past the initial overhang onto a juggy face right of the arete. Work your way up on positive holds to the tiny roof where you'll find the crux. Moving past the roof, balance up an easy slab section with positive holds to the anchors.  

Super fun. Technical crux above 4th bolt, followed by rest station and pump fest to the chains. Starting flakes are a little fragile, pull down, not out (Crux work-around to left not recommended, way off bolt line)

This is the hand and finger crack line on the left side of the alcove.  It pulls over a bulge about 10 feet up and continues in the crack to the top, ending at the small pine tree.  The bolts are just up and left of the tree.

Cruxy low moves will get you into a tight chimney.  Squirm past the large horizontal, up and out of the widening chimney, and onto the dirty slab at wall left to finish at the tree anchor.

Interesting 11+/12- climbing brings you to a dynamic crux above the 4th bolt. Punch it through a slight runout on moderate terrain to a rest before the crux. Hard moves right off the rest slowly ease off to the anchors. A fixed draw has been added on the 5th bolt so that it is possible to clip it off the jug, otherwise it is scary to hang a draw. It can also be used for cleaning.

Mixed styles of climbing on an east facing wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dead Dog & Energamata Walls