Start on left side - side pull and walk your hands and up the left side to the top of the pentagon. From there, a top out from the small ledge is pretty easy. Great foot holds on the main face. Moss growing on right side of the rock. Can downclimb the same way you came up or on the left side of the rock is a gentler slope.

Pentagon Traverse

Social Capital

Kaleidoscope

Pentagon Corner Traverse (Sit)

Traverse + Up

Color Organ

Meeting Myano

Escape the Cave

Fun sit start variation to Pentagon Traverse. Around the left-corner of the pentagon face, there is a slopey ledge with some well placed bumps for two starting hands and a left heel, with the right foot down low. Work your way around the corner and follow the standard Pentagon Traverse line.

One of the better problems in the park. Called "Social Capital" due to the tremendous amount of value that Mianus Park brings to the community in terms of ecological and societal value. Located on Boulder A, on the left most side of the overhanging face. Start on a good incut side pull crimp with the right hand, left hand about 3 feet left on a good crimp, and right foot heel hook down in the nook below. First move is to a massive side pull rail. Climb to the lip and traverse up and right on slopers and an incut flat edge to the apex of the boulder. Mantel to finish. A lower start in the nook would add a V-grade in difficulty.This route has likely been done already, so any other information on difficulty, description, or original name, please message me.

Amazing problem on perfect rock, one of the best in the park! Start stretched out in the middle of the face on a good right hand slot and a left hand crimp. Make some fun dynamic moves to the lip. 

Start on the far left side, traverse across as far right as possible, then come back to the left and straight up. Traverse has tiny, precise feet and smears but good handholds. Top-out is two slopers on top of the boulder.

A slightly harder variant of Kaleidoscope. Start stretched out in the middle of the face on a good right hand slot and a left hand crimp. Make a dynamic move to a good left hand, then another to a right hand pinch directly overhead.

Start with your right hand on the rails, left hand on the crimp and your right foot in the dish. This is a big like a big hug (meeting Myano)

 Bump your left hand to the beautiful underclingy edge. From here fire to the lip on the left, stop the barn door and top out.

Two cruxes: the first couple of moves are tricky and then getting over the bulge can be a bit tricky. Start nice and dry inside the concave, clean face and head to the side, then up and over the lip. Route details on the pictures.

Secluded, in the far north of the park, not a ton of traffic. Area is fairly dry depending on the boulder. The problems range from easy to impossible and from short to massive.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old Mill Lane Boulder Field