The crux is getting over the corner from the start via awkward highstep/ heel hook mantle thing but  just sooth sailing from there. 

   I'm assuming this has been done before so if anybody has any information on the actual name and first ascent thatd be awesome

James and the Giant Peach

Nectar

Branches

Hope You Like Jammin' Too

The Death Warrant

Whalley’s Crack

Friendship Lesson

Doin' It Up

Regicide

Fantastic Four

The Stain

Sweet Aroma

Douglas Adams

Traitors to the Crown

Roots

Voodooin’ It Up

Extra Fuzzy Peach

Judgy Face

Maybe Not

Stoned Haven

Begin hands matched on a crimp rail above the lip, left side of the arete, solid left foot to the left, slightly below the lip. Throw right for the arete, then left into the higher crimp rail on the slab above. Throw higher right, go left into a small pointy hold on the face and top out through the slab.

There are a few lines and variations on the arete;

7b-Problem, Mad Real Arete:(vimeo.com/11285768)

(and maybe Branches sit? Based on the old map)

This variation begins like Mad Real, but climbs more naturally, through easier holds into the left ledge. Sit start on the rock below the arete. (This skips one move on Mad Real, which begins in the hole between the rock and arete).

Low left handed sidepull, high right sloper on the arete, large foot at the base. Get a small protruding left hand pinch and grab a tricky right handed overhead sidepull. Post and make a big left hand move for the sidepull jug. Make one more move into a right hand pocket and hit the left ledge to top out.

 My favorite Line at the Cave.

Sit down start in a wide compression using a right hand sidepull and a unique tufa pinch, pull on, stand up into the undercling, throw to a big sidepull, huck for the top. Great rock and moves.For the stand, I used the undercling and a closer sidepull than the sit, because they were chalky on my first visit. Do one move, it’s done. V1, awkward.

Sit start with a sturdy left fist jam and a slopey right pinch, throw highish right to a somewhat hidden crimp, continue to the friendly holds on the ledge and top out.

There's a hard rockover on thin holds in the middle of the face.

Sit start on the low right corner of the friendly crack, traversing left and topping out over the lip where "x" marks the spot.

 Variation: sit start to the right of “giant peach” left hand in a slot below the lip, right hand in the crack (some wingspan required) perform a similar mantle sequence.

 There are several variations on the exit, either climb the left arete v0-, link into the hex slab v1-, or turn the corner into the left slab v0-.

Sit start (really squat down riiight in front) left of the sign, left hand on a crimp, right on a flat sloper. Move to a right hand sloping pinch and then (crux) throw for the top (best option the jug directly overhead, the positive area is smaller than it appears, however). 

  Should be over in about 30 min.

Big moves to great holds makes this a fun route. Great foot makes awkward top out much easier and safer.   Route and name based on geocities diagram, personally felt easier than V2

Start matched on left hand pinch, bump to intermediate crimp - then again to crimp rail out right with bad feet under lip. Fire up left  hand to crimp rail, bump right hand to jug, top out on slab.

Sitting start with a high right heel (small lip for left foot underneath), to a left handed gaston. Crux is reaching high with the right hand to gain the send. 

  Here is some footage of an ascent of the route... 

youtube.com/watch?v=KxqW6Gr…

Sit start to the right of the cave entrance, left hand on a large hold, right hand on the arete. Climb into the “allright” stand. Hidden holds unlock the tricky start and protect the top out.

Sit start like the crack, climb into the slab through a halfpad five finger crimp, continue to the slot above. Either climb left into the arete of “giant peach” and top out; or (for more fun, value, and headiness) traverse right into another slot and top thru the protruding block.

Climb the slab up to large slot below the block. Use the horn on top of the block, and a solid right foot, to (crux) reach the final right hand.

Find your way up the slightly less-than-vertical slab, using the right arete and various face holds. Several different route options can all get you to the top.

Sit start, left hand on the low ledge adjacent the Branches face, right in a crack. Reach right for the protruding sidepull, dance your way on to the face, gain the massive sidepull, and ride the left arete to the top. Excellent moves.

My variation on the front face, less breezy than Doin’ it up, with harder start and finish.

 Crouch start with a low right hand and high left hand pinch. Move through arete into the jugs overhead, physical crux. Traverse right through some decent hand holds and solid feet into a jug below the upper slab, about 8 feet off the deck. Commit to a high foot and reach high for a solid rail, climb over the top.

At one point there was probably a sit start to the right of “doin it up” that went v(~-5?) . It’s been painted over now, so instead, stand start in the v slot like proper “doin it up”. Climb right into the right leaning slot, (crux) navigate the blocky terrain through solid holds into the slab and top out. It’s easier than it looks.

follow the crack on the left up, middle/right pretty featureless

on the guide picture shown you will see #5 called Allright (v4ish), this route has the same exit but starts on the arete to the right. Follow the slopey left leaning arete up to the top, traverse over 3-4 ft and top out on a hidden jug. Possible exit at the top of the arete also.

Nice place to go hit once or twice a year. Good landings, solid rock and plenty of variations besides the regulars.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Judges Cave