Climb slabby rock past horizontals that provide opportunities for good gear. Surmount a brief crux, and make your way to a large ledge with a giant plate sitting on it and belay. Move left and gain a low angle flake that forms a wide crack. Belay on a small ledge (to the right) once you exit the crack. Climb an easy pitch to the top of the Meadow Dome.

Walk off by scrambling farther up the dome to a clear left turn down into the Tan Corridor.

Six Toed Cats

A Farewell to Arms

For Whom the Bell Tolls

Growing Pains

The Sun Also Rises

P1. Follow a right angling ramp towards a bit of a headwall where some water may be dripping.  At the head of this wall is a bolt, which is fairly well hidden from the ground.  From here, follow easier, slabby terrain to a bolted (2 big Metolius bolts) belay station on your right.  Some protection is available along the way in bigger cracks.

P2. From the belay station, move left towards a bit of a "staircase" of rocks with very limited opportunities for gear.  Stay to the left of the dripping water/waterfall.  The steps steepen, but the holds are solid, and there are good stances for your feet.  There is one bolt to your right, almost parallel to some cool crystals/quartz in the rock.  This was my first and only pro on the route.  Then head up another 15 feet, then traverse right to the 2 bolt belay station.  Your second may be able to go more directly right from the bolt onto the steeper headwall.  Rap from here to the ground with 2 60m ropes.

From the Fixed Pin description:  start to the right of a black streak about 25' feet to the left of Fairwell To Arms (FTA is the right-trending ramp to a bolt).  Climb up the ramp, and pull onto the face, not much pro.   Clip a bolt while pulling through the bulge (crux), and then head up a lower angled slab along the ridge, aiming for a left-angling crack at the second bulge.  Actually, after the crux, the terrain is pretty much open season without any change in difficulty, pick whatever line you like, but the crack does provide a little more pro.  Belay on gear about 5' below the top of the wall/ramp.

To descend, step right across a scree filled gully, and rap the Farewell To Arms anchors (2 beefy bolts), and it is about a 200' rappel.

Growing Pains is a line up the right rib of the Hemmingway Wall that starts from the ramp to access the Aerie. This route once complete will be the safest way up the Hemmingway Wall, but currently has run out slab on pitch 2-4. The first pitch is a fun outing by itself, 110'.

P1. Start at the top of the slab below the obvious black water streaked slab. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This is a really fun 5.6 pitch with reasonable protection. If you are continuing, it's best to clip the anchor as a directional and step up and left to belay on a large ledge with natural protection.

P2. Climb left and slightly down to a middle ledge system that traverses to a prow left of a gully. Belay at bolt anchors below a roof.

P3. Climb through the first roof easily along the prow on the right, then move left, and tackle the second bulge left of the obvious black streak. Belay above the second bulge, or continue up easy rock up just left of the hanging forest along a ridge to a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the wall, 200'.

Follow a broken crack system to a ramp - traverse up and under the right-facing headwall on good holds. Where the headwall runs out, step out left and fire up a short, steep section finishing with a short, wide crack (#3 BD cam). Pull the bulge and angle right to a bolted anchor.

This is super enjoyable 5.7 climbing - if you start farming lichen, you are probably off route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hemingway Wall