This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.

In the online guide, this is the route listed by name as "Mike Johnson" (the FAist), between

Chickamauga

and

30,000 Casualties

.  This climbs steep pink-granite just right of the prominent arete, but it is broken up by several bulges and ledges which make it not very continuous.

The bulge at the start is easier than it looks.  At mid-height comes two back-to-back boulder problems over bulges onto ledges.  The first is the crux, but the second is the more perplexing.  From here, steep rock leads onto the arete and to the anchor.

Rebel Yell

Chris Barlow Mixed Route

Rightist

Harper's Ferry

Abracadabra

[Redacted]

Penny Lane

Clippers and Saws

Road Runner

Bull Run

Midlife Crisis

Amp Left

Flee

Unknown

Pendejo

March To The Sea

30,000 Casualties

Tanner Classic

Chickamauga

Kennesaw Mountain

Landscape Architect

Nathan Forrest

Hanging Judge

Ghost Rider

Amp Right

Two Fine People

The Merrimac

Leftist

Zing

Vicksburg

Bullwinkle

.54 Chunk 'o Lead

From the chimney start (the start to several other climbs in this area), this nice sport climb ascends the face just left of the obvious arete.  Stem up the outside of the chimney past the first couple bolts.  At the point where you can no longer chimney, good edges start to appear.  Climb this section past  many bolts to the top of a pillar.  From the pillar, make strenuous moves up the headwall and over a bulge (crux) up to the anchor.  A long pitch with good position.

Do a boulder problem off a cheater block, and angle left to the first bolt. An additional #2 will protect the follower, if you TR the line. Follow a few more bolts with a good hand rail but poor feet. The crux move joins a hand crack which is followed to the anchors.

Pitch 1: (110 feet, 5.10)  This is the farthest route left on top of the boulders.  The first move is a step across the gap and likely the crux of the climb -- good feet but no hands and hard to stay on the rock.  I recommend leaning across and clipping the first bolt (see photo) before stepping across the gap for the climb.  Although it is fairly sustained climbing, I thought there was another crux at about bolt four or five.  For me, the first pitch of "Rightist" was the hardest of the six moderate routes on Tanner Dome proper.  There are about 12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2:  This goes up and slightly right of a large roof on big holds.  Mostly 5.7 climbing, with one move of about 5.8 just past the steep right side of the roof. Above the roof, there is a place where it's a little runout, but you can place a cam (I think I used a #1) in a crack for protection.  This pitch is about 80 feet and 8 bolts to the two-bolt anchor.  It is mostly 5.7 climbing with maybe one 5.8 move.

Descent:  rappel the route in two rappels.

The climb starts just to the right of an obvious chimney, half way between 30,000 Casualties and .54 Chunk 'o Lead.  Climb the slabby, awkward finger crack up to large face holds.  Pull yourself up to a good rest before the angle of the route kicks back.  Lieback on good holds and smeared feet until the crack peters out and face holds reappear.  Continue up to the two bolt anchor.

P1. Pull over a bulge, then go through an area of large huecos. Step right to a large block, pass this gingerly, then continue right and up to a ledge. Climb straight up into a short groove and then to a major boulder-strewn ledge, about ten feet left of an obvious large tree (120', 5.9).

P2. Step left, then go up a few feet to a slanting break. Follow this right for a few moves to its end. Gain a ramp up and left. Continue up the ramp a few feet, then go up the face above. Where it steepens, move right a few feet then up. Belay on a large ledge (95', 5.7).

P3. Climb up a short dihedral, then follow ledges and blocks to the top (30', 5.7).

This is a one pitch route on the right side of the Great Big Wall.  It is mostly a slab climb over a few bulges in the rock with intermittent cracks.  Three bolts protect the bottom half of the climb. Above that, the climbing is easier but runout to the anchor which is shared with

Hanging Judge

to the left.  To protect the runout, I slung a horn and placed a small cam (0.5) in a crack.

Per

John Torkelson

: the first pitch of the route is a bit wandering and runout (for the 5.5/6 leader) on the easy bits. The rock is great.

Per

Rich Piltingsrud 10thMAG

: above the first pitch, you can continue a bolted second pitch, or push right to a decent trad 5.7. It has some runout, but you can protect the more exposed moves at the end.

The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30' splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and laybacking off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20' of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors.

Per

Glenn Schuler

: there is a now 2nd pitch.

The crux is in the first 2 bolts where you zig-zag through some overhanging flake systems.  Stick clipping the 2nd bolt is nice for this section.  An interesting face and slab section up high also contain some hard moves.

Crank past the bottom bulging section to lower angle rock. The 1st clip is fairly high with a crummy landing and a not-so-solid-looking hold to clip from, a stick clip wouldn't be a bad idea. A few easy moves after the 2nd bolt lead to a thin, technical series of moves past the last couple bolts.

The was created by

.

This climbs one pitch -- it starts as steep face climb on small feet and crimps for three bolts, then it has about a 10 foot section of layback then another two or three bolts above the layback flake on easier rock.  The crux is getting from the 2nd bolt to the layback, and it is a little height dependent -- will be easier for climbers taller than 6 feet.  Overall, it is an excellent climb.

Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.9-) Climb up to the right of a small overhang (see photo).  It's about 11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor on a small ledge.  The crux is probably a steep section on the slab about two bolts below the anchors.

Pitch 2 (80 feet, 5.7)  Climb straight up about 40 feet and you'll pass another two-bolt anchor, then the route divides into left, center, and right. I took the center route, and it goes another 40 feet to the top anchors.  This top pitch is steep, but the rock has big holds and features, so it's much easier climbing than the first pitch. I think it's about 9 clips on the 2nd pitch to the anchors.

Descent:  Rappel the route in two rappels.

This is a bolted pitch on excellent stone.

Climb a bolt protected slab as seen in the photo.

Pitch one, 5.10c - starts just left of a hard looking overhang. It has 8 bolts and an anchor. The first pitch can also be done as a sport pitch, by stopping at the first set of anchors (use a 60 meter rope).

Pitch two, 5.10b - 11 bolts and an anchor.

Pitch three - 10 bolts and an anchor takes the steep face on big holds, this is best done as a sport route.

Walk off, down and east from the ledge atop the second pitch.

The crux comes right off the deck, then traverse leftward to a rest ledge. Continue up the wall past some friable rock, big holds, and fun moves. There is a questionable flake up high, easily avoided, just beware.

This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.

Just right of the chimney which marks the start of several climbs on Civil Wall, this excellent mixed route climbs the most obvious weakness on a steep pink-granite face.

The first part climbs a trickier-than-it-looks face past bolts to an exciting stand-up move over a bulge.  Those with more patience than I may be able to better protect with RPs in a seam here.  Clip another bolt, then traverse left to the crack.  Jam the steep crack up to a ledge, then wander up featured rock to the anchor.  The crack is strenuous and very crystalline, so you may want to consider taping.

Pitch 1: the 5.7 crux move is getting off the ground -- up a six foot vertical slab with good holds for hands. After this steep start and clipping the first bolt above, the rest of the 1st pitch is mostly 5.5ish -- fairly low angle, and mostly big holds to the anchors. It's a little runout, but the climbing is easy. There are about 6 bolts to the anchors.

Pitch 2: this is an easy, short pitch, straight up, with mostly slabbly climbing on fairly low angle rock for another 60 feet. There are about 5 bolts to the anchors. It starts out at about 5.6 and gets easier the higher you climb.

Descent: rappel the route in two rappels from the top.

You could easily combine the two pitches into a single long pitch of about 150 feet.

A couple slopey opening moves take you to a steep, right-angling weakness with positive holds. Get your feet situated and turn the lip of the overhang to gain some more good holds at a stance. From here, interesting & fun climbing up the near vertical face gets you to the anchors. This is a great warmup.

This is on Tanner Dome.  It consists of one pitch of steep, well-featured, face climbing.  Although it's supposed to be easier, I thought this route was harder than the two 5.9 routes in the trees (

Amp Left

and

Amp Right

).  The crux is in the middle of the route where it is steep and it requires good foot work, without much for hands in a couple of places.  It is a fun route.

The home guide I have says this route is "5.11 R serious trad" and has kept me from getting on this for years.  Maybe I stopped short before the 5.11 R section by going to the first anchors I saw (and on route), which are for Mike Johnson's 5.12b route to the right.  Either way, this route deserves more traffic and should clean up nicely.

This route is easily identified by a continuous crack with a 2' roof with a hand crack going through it 15' off the ground followed by tight hands and 2 pods and then a thin section.  Start with a tricky move getting established in the crack which becomes tight hands.  Work your way towards the roof stemming and smearing, place a high piece, and jam awesome hands out the roof. After the roof, the crack starts pinching down to tight hands.  After this, you come to a big hands/fist pod then the crack pinches down shortly and then opens up to a 2nd wider pod which is fists/off fists (#4 Camalot).  With some trickery, there is a great no hands rest available to help scope out the thin section.  Make delicate moves above the pod to an okay stance, and wiggle in some thin gear (small nuts/cam).  Make another tenuous move or 2 towards an awesome lock and a big move to the jug.  From here, place a bomber #0.5 Camalot, and make fun face moves up and right to the anchors.

This climb ascends one pitch on the Great Big Wall with two distinct cruxes.  Climb easy, low angle rock for 25 feet to the first bolt next to a small (3') juniper bush.  Pass the juniper on easy rock another 15 feet to a 6 foot tall, vertical corner with a bolt to protect the crux move -- clip the bolt and pull over on good holds with not much for feet.  Above the corner, clip another bolt and scamper left up a short slab to a short wall which is the second crux move (about 5.8ish) protected by another well-placed bolt.  Climb over the short wall and move up and right to a two-bolt anchor.

Descent: rappel from the anchor.

P1. Climb up and right first through some bushes into a recess/corner, then up past a short crack to the arête. Head up the arête fifteen feet to a spike belay (70', 5.7).

P2. Step right across a slot, then angle up and right to an easy, left-facing chimney groove. Go up this for thirty feet past one ledge to a larger ledge (the Halfway Ledge; this continues leftwards, past a large tree and under a bulging headwall, to the end of the crag) (80', 5.8).

P3. Thirty feet above is an obvious, easy chimney. There is an obvious, bushy, left-facing groove gaining it. Just right of this is a short, clean, left-facing groove topped by an overhang. Climb this groove, go over the roof, and traverse right into the base of the groove. Continue to a large ledge (50', 5.10-). Note: on the first ascent, one pin was placed to enable cleaning. This was clipped for protection and removed. Leading this pitch is about 5.10-R.

P4. Go up the chimney groove to the summit (5.6, 120').

Amp Right is a good climb, and I thought it was a little easier than Amp Left which starts about 12 feet left of this route.

The 1st pitch is about 5.8+ or 5.9- and goes fairly straight up the rock, aiming to the left of the small pine tree that can be seen in the photo. It is about 10 or 11 bolts on the 1st pitch to a nice two-bolt anchor about 110 feet up.

The 2nd pitch goes up and then bends in an arc a little to the right and then up again. The second pitch is only about 5.7 climbing -- big holds on rock that has not seen much climbing. I can't remember for sure, but I guess the second pitch only requires about 6 or 7 clips before the two-bolt anchor.

Rappel the route to descend. It's about 170 feet to the ground from the anchors of the 2nd pitch, and about 110 feet to the ground from the anchors of the 1st pitch.

Eds. This submission was reassigned after finding the previous description unfulfilling.

This is one pitch on the Great Big Wall.  It is an easy climb up a rib with three bolts -- a little run out to the first bolt, but it's on easy rock.

Grunt your way up the chimney past two bolts, and step left onto the ramp for some easy moves. Follow the left line of bolts up the middle of the face above on perfect stone and superb climbing. You may not agree with my quality rating if you hate chimneys - but the upper wall is well worth the grovel at the bottom. It shares the start and anchors with a variation a few feet to the right.

Climb past two bolt on steep rock that is closer to 5.10+ than 5.9 as the guidebook suggest.  5.10 face climbing leads to an interesting boulder problem near the top.

This is on Tanner Dome. It is a straightforward, single-pitch 5.6 or 5.7 climb that angles slightly to the right as you go up.  It climbs past the left side of the small overhang (while

Amp Left

climbs past the right side).  It's about 90 feet to the anchors.

Descent:  rappel from the anchors.

Surmount the lower overhang via mostly positive holds to easier ground. Good holds vanish quickly and you are faced with the stopper move. Having a big reach really helps here. The top section is every bit as blank as it appears from the ground. Great protection & quality stone!

Start in a groove, and follow a line of bolt up and left along an arete. The climb starts just right of a large tree.

This is a beautiful line in the middle of the Civil Wall at Tanner Dome.  Climb the hand crack and large block (appears loose but seemed solid when climbed upon) up to and through the first pod.  Traverse to the left from here and continue climbing up to the roof.  Stuff a couple C3s or TCUs and pull into the finger crack (crux) on the upper wall.  Continue climbing through finger locks and stems to the two bolt anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Tanner Dome