This route in not on the Lost Pensil, but on a formation about 5 min. west.   It is on the NW face of a buttress of rock.

Sexy Bolt

Coming Up

Jailbird

[Redacted]

New Shoes For Sunny

Number Two (aka the Weasel Boys Arete)

This is the route on the right arete of the somewhat narrow buttress with Sexy Bolt.

Really fun route with great gear. Move through wide-ish lower section into the A-frame roof. Pull out of the roof and enjoy great jams to finish. Very worth it if in the area. Anyone know if this has been done before?

Directly across from Sexy Bolt and New Shoes For Sunny is a large boulder.  Jailbird ascends this boulder.

Indian Giver is a bold route up the southwest face of the beautiful Lost Pencil pillar.  Thin, steep Joshua Tree face climbing that is very insecure.  A fall getting to the second bolt could be disastrous.

Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner.  I think a hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux.  More hard face up and right gains another big jug.  A terrifying 5.10c mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt.  Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features.  Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.

Considering the nature of the climbing, this is an impressive FFA for 1977!

A boulder problem start leads into continuous and technical climbing along the arete with great exposure and positioning. Four stars out of five.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Pencil