This was a good find while out for a day of cragging. The cracks are straight in and not of the typical flared variety commonly found in Unaweep.

Start in the deep gully and get high enough to hand traverse left, on good feet and holds, to gain a ledge where you will get your first protection. From here, make a semi-awkward move that gains a hand crack over a slight roof. Once you pull the roof, continue to a ledge near some blocks. Follow the splitter finger crack that begins in a slight overhang, and plug and chuck for 20 feet to another ledge. From here, do a few face moves to reach the anchor.

The Pleasure Pillar

Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation

Unknown 2

The Main Vein

The Unaweeper

Unknown 1

Cro-Magnons From Space

Rowan's Arete

Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA Facial Pleasure)

Start in a hand crack in the dihedral to the left of the arete. Move up and right to the arete, clip a bolt, pass a flake requiring small/medium nuts, then commit to the arete passing 2 more bolts to gain a pedestal where the

Pleasure Pillar

goes to the right out a finger crack. From here, head to the left side of the arete into a hand a crack finishing at 2 bolt anchor to the left of the

Pleasure Pillar

anchor.

Start on the same ramp as

Unknown 2

and make some hard moves off the deck to clip a bolt about 20 feet right of the first bolt on

Unknown 2

. Clip a few more bolts until you come across two bolts extremely close together. It looks like the route traversed right to gain some cracks and then up to some anchors above. It is possible that this route is Unfinished!

Instead, do the variation that clips the first few bolts of Route 3 and then traverses into the upper section of Route two.

Start up the ramp and onto the orange rock that is unlike any other rock found in Unaweep. Clip a bolt and start up the left trending seam on crimps. Clip more bolts and pass some bulges until easier ground and a jaunt to the anchors.

This climb follows a long, vertical vein of quartz for two long pitches. You end up on top of

Rowan's Arete

.

Pitch 1: (5.11) Leave everything bigger than a  #0.75 with your partner, but bring a #4. Start on some blocky terrain and place a few pieces until you reach the first bolt which is about 30 feet up. From here, used mixed gear and bolts to get to the base of the 4' roof. The next 20 feet is the meat of the route, and how you do it will be height dependent. Move over the roof on the left hand side, traverse a few moves right with the vein clipping two more bolts until the grade eases up and you get to a nice bolted belay on a ledge. (120')

Pitch 2: (5.10+) Traverse slightly right and up aiming towards the bolts. Clip several bolts up fun climbing on great rock. This pitch is long, so bring lots of slings! Continue through some mixed terrain and slowly angle right to where there is one last bolt and an obvious hand crack begins to angle on the left. Follow the hand crack to a bolted anchor on-top of the ledge.(160')

If you still have juice, lower and take a lap on

Rowan's Arete

!

Climb one pitch of 5.6 to the belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and huge belay space. Alternately you can access this from the top of

The Pleasure Pillar

. Rap from top to the right to the belay space.

This is a bouldery, overhanging crimp/sidepull/gaston festival. It is bouldery and sustained from bottom to top. Bring a 0.4 and 4 inch cam for the last 20 feet to the top up the fist crack.

Climb a dihedral until you hit a light colored band of rock and the crack seams out and you arrive at a bolt. Climb past the bolt stemming and smearing your way high enough to get a pinkie jam above the bulge. Continue up the finger and tight hand crack to the tree. The bolt is a little low, and the pinkie jam a little high....

Start almost in the far left corner of Cave Buttress to where it becomes a dike. Begin up the white band of rock clipping a few bolts. Gain a ledge  and protect with gear. Continue up the face with a few more bolts gaining a crack system that leads to a roof. Place gear in the crack and traverse the roof left and clip a bolt on the roof's lip. Surmount the roof and put in some small gear and tip toe to the anchors.

Climb the arete with sidepulls and crimps up to the top. There is a very nice rest at half height. It has great climbing the whole way to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cave Buttress