This is one of the easiest routes at the Beach. Lizard King is in the middle-ish of Left Wall. It's defining characteristic is a right-facing flake about 7 feet off the ground. The first clip is kind of high, but it's not that scary because this flake makes the last bit of climbing easy. After that it's slab climbing up to the anchors.

Lizard King

White Shadow

Banana Hammock

Manta Ray

Mountaineers Route

Wipeout

Late Takeoff

Swim or Sink

Low Tide

Tree Line

Don't Call Me Jesus

Yummy Noises

Surfing With the Wazoo

Rock Lobster

Shallow Water

Holy Handgrenade

Next route right of Holy Handgrenade.  A difficult start leads to fun edging.  Make a few hard moves, get to a rest and repeat until you get to the anchor.  I've listed the guidebook rating but it didn't feel any harder than Holy Handgrenade which is rated 10b.

Next route right of Lizard King.  Really fun edging and smearing.  Probably a little soft for the grade, feels similar in difficulty to Lizard King 5.9.

On the very left side of The Beach, starts in a right facing flake.  Climb up the flake on some smears to clip the first bolt and then continue edging and smearing to the top.  Felt harder than 10a, similar in difficulty to Holy Handgrenade and Mountaineers route.  I would call it 10b/c.

The leftmost route on The Beach slab, starts just right of a right facing corner system.  Sustained smearing and edging. Sandbagged at 10b, more like 10d especially compared to other routes on the wall.

There is a square shaped slab in the center of the formation with 3 routes on it. Swim or Sink is the left route. It starts sort of in the center and traverses up and left to avoid the steeper section right off the ground. The other two routes here each have 4 bolts (and are the same length), while Swim or Sink only has 3. This gives it considerably more pucker factor, so get your slab head screwed on if you want to lead this. It can also be toproped by climbing Rock Lobster or Surfing first and then making a 4th class traverse over to the anchors.

Follow a very thin, beautiful crack up through smooth, polished granite. 25m/80' lower off. Great climb, true to its rating!

There is a square shaped slab in the center of the formation with 3 routes on it. Surfing With the Wazoo is the one on the right. This is a relatively easy 10a and one of the most moderate climbs at the Beach.

Climb up an easy left facing flake/groove. Reach out left to clip the first bolt. Climb up the slab to a shallow dish, then up more slab finishing up the water-streak.

There is a square shaped slab in the center of the formation with 3 routes on it. Rock Lobster is the middle route. I found it quite a bit harder than Surfing With the Wazoo, despite only being rated one letter grade higher. These two route also share the same anchors.

This is at the left end of the Left Wall. Look for a 10ft tall, right-facing, lieback flake. This flake is the start of Manta Ray (10a). The next bolt line to the right is Holy Handgrenade. It has a large pocket/hole about 6 feet up. Climb up the slab to an anchor shared with Mountaineers Route (10c, the next climb to the right)

I sort of like this one. The crimps are a little bit bigger and the rock is slightly steeper.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Beach