This route follows directly up the recently cleaned large crack system up the right side of the slab. Pro can be tricky for the first section of the route, but small gear gets you through to better pro higher. Follow the crack almost to its top, and then step left on a small seam to join Zydeco Fool for the well-protected crux move at a bolt just before the anchor. Most of this route is closer to 5.8, but the crux move bumps the rating up. Shares an anchor with Zydeco Fool.

King Ex

Zydeco Fool

Start at the very base of the wall and step up a couple mossy ledges to gain the slab. This route follows just left of the obvious large crack system of King Ex, finding protection conveniently in horizontal cracks until a cruxy last move at a bolt high on the slab. Shares an anchor with King Ex.

A great piece of stone that has largely been ignored and bypassed by climbers for decades. The Falcon Slab (Or Zydeco Wall) is a broad rounded monolith of granite on a sloping hillside, very near the Reed Lakes Trail. Although the route selection is limited, the quality of rock and routes is excellent. Since the original route development, this wall has overgrown with heavy moss, but recent cleaning and rebolting efforts have uncovered the routes and made them accessible for climbers again. This area could use more traffic to keep it clean.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Falcon Slab/Zydeco Wall