Incredible line, one of the best around. It succumbs to good footwork and technical trickery. Harder if you're tall. A couple things:Best cleaned by following, or perhaps by cleaning the upper part on the lower, then toproping the lower part to get the rest of the draws.Early season the base may be flooded. On the lower, you can take your shoes off before dipping into the muck. The rope may get wet when you pull it.Stick clip. Climb straight up to gain the right-arching feature. Follow this to its right end where you make a final difficult move to a right-hand pinch. A cool boulder problem over the bulge leads to a slab below the giant roof. Fixed anchor in the ceiling.

Ultra Instinct

Welcome to the Jungle

One Route to Rule Them All

Burly Squirrel

Soil Sample

The Notorious

Cool Like Dat

The Undertaker

Cherty Girl

Another incredible, angling journey. This one has a number of roofs, the largest being the crux.Pull over the first roof, then up good holds to a second roof. Go over this using a left sidepull and get established on top of a triangular pod. Move right to a crimp under the large roof, then over this on slopers (crux). Once over the lip, move up to a crack and follow this rightwards. Move up to the top of the flake, up a crack in a tan-colored face, then over another roof. Step right, then right again over another roof to the fixed anchor.

A hard crux down low, then an excellent, sustained face above. The upper section is 12a and has high-quality, black rock similar to the Beer Walls.Go up the open book corner, then up and right to a position below a shallow roof with a left-facing edge above. Move up the left-facing edge (crux, V6) to better holds and a sloping, no-hands stance. Continue up the super-thin, sustained face above, staying left of a tan streak.

Stellar climbing on mostly large holds. It's a bit devious and difficult to read, hence much easier once you know the route. A 70m rope makes it.

 The only "warmup" in this area. There is a mid-station 70' up in case it's raining.

 Ascend past a series of left-leaning, right-facing corners to a short, overhanging, sheer section. Overcome this (crux), then up to a V-groove. Above this is a sloping ledge with a fixed anchor. If it's raining, you can lower from here.

 To continue, exit the ledge to the left and climb up a beautiful gray face and blunt arete. Just before the anchor is a difficult (10+) face-climbing section.

A neat pitch with lots of variety.  Start with hands in the horizontal crack below the left-facing corner.  Hand traverse left until you are out from under the corner, then move up over the bulge with a long reach to a jug from a side-pull.  Once above the bulge, traverse left until you get your hands in the excellent horizontal crack, and then continue left until you can move up through a series of horizontal, evenly spaced parallel cracks.  At the top of the ladder of horizontals, make a hard stand up move and grab the good lip below the roof.  Go straight up over the roof and continue on easier ground to a bolted anchor at the highest point of the wall.

Begin under the right-facing corner.  Make a couple moves to a jug and move left around the corner to get established on the face.  Move up using a short left-facing, left-leaning corner and then move back right into a shallow groove.  Go straight up through a small roof and continue to the top of the wall.

Amazing route that climbs very much like a Red River Gorge route. It has mostly big holds, but overhangs 20', and is thus very pumpy. It stays totally dry in the rain.

 Go up easy edges, then up some right-facing edges to a good jug. Punch it up to a good rail (not super restful), then up to a cave (crux). There's a bit of a rest here. Exit the cave on the left side, traverse right over the lip of the cave, then go up and left following crimps to a right-rising horizontal crack. Continue straight up to the very top of the wall. Fixed anchor.

Another gem of technical climbing with two distinct cruxes. A couple key holds seep until summer.

 Stick clip. Go up a right-facing flake to a less-steep section. Good rest here. Continue up a steep, sheer wall with horizontal seams (1st crux) to a good rest on the right. Move back left, then go up and right following sharp-edged underclings (2nd crux) to an anchor.

A good (and only?) warmup. Named for the weird, chert-like, caramel-colored rock chunks embedded in the anorthosite.Go up the corner, then move left onto the face. Go up past the caramel-colored rock chunks, then straight up the face to a narrow ledge with a rotten birch stump. Continue up the black face to a fixed anchor.You can reach this anchor from the top (be especially careful doing this, though).

Underwood Canyon, named for its proximity to the Underwood Club, is a narrow slot canyon with steep walls on both sides. The left side of the canyon with many of the rock climbs faces northwest and stays in shade until 4:00 PM. All winter routes with the exception of White Fang are on the left side of the canyon. The right side of the canyon faces southeast, and the rock is somewhat cleaner. The canyon has about two dozen winter routes (both pure ice and mixed), about ten of which are documented in Blue Lines 2. The potential for additional rock climbs here is substantial.

 The ice climbs are here: Underwood Canyon

 The floor of the canyon is narrow, in places 40' wide, and chocked with boulders, downed trees, stinging nettles, chest-high ferns, bogs, and a some open pools. Fortunately, the established climbs are near the mouth of the canyon, so you don't have to navigate much of this. A bonus is that you can scramble up a gully on the opposite side of the canyon and have an amazing view of the wall—a great place to take photos.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Underwood Canyon