Best route climbed. If only it were longer. This route has the pleasure of skipping most of the bad rock found along the rest of the crag and easy access to the perfect hands splitter presents itself just to the left of the crack. Great #2 (#2 friends are great) placements are found until the pod. A loose looking, but mostly solid block is in the crack as it opens up to big hands. #3 and #4 are useful through the wide pod. #4 is best placement I made at the crag.

Pull above the pod into an alcove with some suspect rock. Exit right via a solid flake/block with the help of good holds along the arete. Slightly sandy footholds, but goes at a moderate grade. Somewhat tricky gear before pulling around the flake. A purple totem fit the flare well. An awesome finish above slide lake.

Crux will come at the bottom for those lacking in crack skills, with another one at the airy top move. I skipped trying to build a gear anchor and found a tree 20-30 feet uphill to sling and bring my follower up.

Splitter Hands

Unnamed LFC

Delicately navigate crumbling footholds to gain the hand crack in the left facing corner. Be heads up on the first big block you encounter after the poor rock. It was solid...enough as we climbed past it, but you never know. Climb the hand crack, using the wide (but sandy) crack to the left as well. Good hands through the roof with a cruxy move turning the roof (5.8...5.9?). A solid rail on the left wall helps establish yourself in the upper corner after turning the roof. Loose but easy to top.

Protects well with hand pieces and some smaller pieces through the roof. Sling a tree at the top and bring your follower up. Walk-off to the west, or rap off tree back to packs.

Climb through lower band of poor rock into left facing corner. There is a thin hands (0.75-#1) crack on the left wall of the corner that protects until the upper bulge/roof. Thin gear was helpful (black totem & 0.1/0.2) through the roof but not mandatory. Can exit a few ways, but best gear was on the left crack. Sling tree at the top.

Sandy, but protected well the whole way. Awkward top out was the crux. Be solid at the grade and have a good lead head. Rock is good enough, but it adds to the spice for sure.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wild West Wall