S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book.  At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.    Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge.  Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.     If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.    Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top.  Watch for some loose rocks on top.  

S&M Crack

DoubleD Right

Saphire Crack

Oral Sex in the Whitehouse

Sangre Verde

Salt Mother

Get Your Mojo Running

Driven to Climbs

Jam Your Blues Away

Endless Summer

Bat Dog

Great Roof Left

The Arrowhead

The A-Frame

Dog Day

Spoticus

Pete's Downclimb

Great Roof Right

Double D Left

Gift of Aliens

Lackawanna

The Crack From Hell

Sweet and Sour

Bush Doctor

Raised by Wolves

Unknown TR

March Madness

Crazy Cams

Up Your Arete

Yo Mamma

The Pocket Rocket

Motengator

Wounded Knee

Type O

Resurrection Link Up

Crack Head

Soma Holiday

Bush Pilot

Bad Moon Rising

Primodelic

Miami Vice

Son of Motengator

Birthday Crack

The Optimator

Taos Lightning

Carpa Manana

Right on Raton

Duke in a Bucket

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Worth climbing. A curving hand crack to the right of a perched boulder at the base of the cliff.

Beautiful arete. Vertical face climbing on big pockets.  Being tall helps (but is not required).  4 bolts to anchor at top.

Nice splitter with a crux down low (past the broken rock).  Continuous 5.7 after the low crux.

A Pete Takeda test-piece. Start in the ditch like pit, up some easy moves and over a very small roof to a TINY left leaning RP crack. This route looks insane, not to mention the tiny horrible pro. Supposedly unrepeated.

Recognizable by the obvious bolt-protected traverse near the bottom, then up a thin crack in a dihedral.  Lots of lichen, but fun.    No anchors but you can use the bolts on the neighboring "Up Your Arete"

Start under big roof.  Suprise! Climb up and out the left side.  The roof move is much easier than it looks from the ground.

Climb to the top of the arrowhead-shaped flake, then up a small hands crack that gets smaller to fingers near 2/3 way up.

Next route right of Crazy Cams.  Mostly pockets and thin crack.

A nice hand to 'rather-wide' crack in a right-facing dihedral to the left of most of the routes listed here.  You can climb the whole thing using ledges and pockets instead of the crack, but bring bigger gear.

Near the left side of the cliff at Sugarite is a gigantic roof.  The crack that passes the left side of the roof is the classic Great Roof Left.  Less classic but still fun is the crack that passes the right side.  Start up a huge flake that goes easy but unprotected (unless you have a #6 camalot or some big bros) to some dodgy-looking but solid blocks just below the roof.  Get some good pro in at the edge of the roof and pull some strenuous jamming and laybacking up around the roof to easier and fun hand jamming to the top. Heavy amounts of lichen on the left side of the crack keep the foot placements interesting to the top.  

  It's a fun route but not very consistent. Easy climbing to the roof, a tough move around the roof and then easier climbing above.  Still worth doing, though.  

  FA info would be greatly appreciated. Also, suggested rating info would be nice too. The 5.10a rating is just our guess since we haven't seen anything published about this route. The move around the roof is definitely more challenging than any single move on Great Roof Left but overall the route is much less sustained.

Dennis Jackson's jackson's guide is a little convoluted concerning this route. He reports this is an excellent route. 

  [Needs description. If you've climbed this route, please contact a MountainProject administrator to have the route assigned to you to write a personal description. Thank you.]

Bush Doctor doesn’t seem to get as much attention as other climbs at Sugarite. It is a lot of fun!  There are fairly new looking chains at the top. Bush Doctor is the left side of the roof. Precarious moves get you around the roof to the left and then great jamming from there on up. I also enjoy climbing the right side of the roof, as well and continue up the right crack. I would call this Bush Doctor Right. Similar grading as the left. Lots of fun!

This TR route is pumpy and unrelenting.The face has remnants of bolts, but no hangers. Many small edges, pockets, and cool sequences will get you to the top of the Right on Raton anchor.

Continuous with tough to place pro.  Fun pockets and thin crack

Broken start into the clean arete.  Rated 5.10b in Jackson's guide, I never found any real difficulties (albeit on toprope).  Has been led w/ cams in pockets.

Area classic.    [Needs description. If you've climbed this route, please contact a MountainProject administrator to have the route assigned to you to write a personal description. Thank you.]

One of the great cracks just to the right of the "great roof."  Steeper, trickier, and more sustained than you might expect.

Step across the dark pit into the good crack(scary), and follow the crack. 

  This route can be started from within the pit, in fact this looks like the truer line with about 20 feet of added climbing.

This climb starts at the bottom of the cave below Wounded Knee. Climb up amazing finger locks and interesting mantles for 25 feet into the start of Wounded Knee. Continue up Wounded Knee to the top.

Crack in corner.  Hands & thin hands mostly, lots of face holds.  Bolted anchor.

This is a smooth looking off-width crack that heads up to a small roof, go left at the roof and follow the smaller crack to the lip.I climbed Soma Hiliday the other day and it is NOT the off width crack to the right. Soma Holiday starts as a very thin crack with tricky moves at the bottom that is left of the off-width. Dennis Jackson’s guide shows this. It is not the off-width. The climb gets considerably easier after the first tricky moves. Definitely not the 10b/c it is given by Jackson. The off-width to the left is unnamed as are so many other climbs at Sugarite. 

Really fun route! Thin cruxy start up to another technical, sporty crux. Roof looks more intimidating than it is - really fun crack climbing up top with excellent edges for feet.

"Primo" says Dennis Jackson. Led first with pre-placed protection.    [Needs description. If you've climbed this route, please contact a MountainProject administrator to have the route assigned to you to write a personal description. Thank you.]

Fun route just to the left of Crack from Hell.  Delicate techy climbing, more like 5.9+ Eldo type climbing.  Fragile rock but fun moves.

Fallow the first half of Motengator than about half way up deviate left to a crack follow to the top.

This climb has a lot of variety for a Sugarite Climb. Chimneys, dihedrals, arets, slabs, overhangs, flares and fingers can all be found on it. It is similar in difficulty to S&M, and I think similar in quality as well. You be the judge.       Start in the chimney. Climb the chimney liberally using cracks on ether side until you get to the interesting cracks starting half way up the slab. Follow the cracks right up the middle of the slab which brings you directly under the main crack. The crux is the first half of this crack because it is slightly overhanging and flaring, than eases a bit for the second half.

An improbable looking climb first lead by Pete Takeda in 1999 with pre-placed protection. Dennis Jackson's guidebook says there has not been a recorded second ascent.    [Needs description. If you've climbed this route, please contact a MountainProject administrator to have the route assigned to you to write a personal description. Thank you.]

Steep face leading to shallow dihedral.  Start is tough and sequential, slowly eases toward the anchor.

This crack is awesome. It is a very thin long crack on the left side of a whitish flake.

Up the hand crack starting from the 5' boulder directly behind Zoid's Tower. A couple of the lower moves are thought-provoking, but there's nothing too strenuous and the protection is abundant.  

  As with most of the other moderates at Sugarite, the stances are great and the going gets easier as you go higher. An excellent intro to leading 5.8 trad.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Horse Mesa