Begin the climb by clipping a couple of bolts on vertical but juggy rock. Then easier climbing with gear placements up to the .9+ crux as you move through the gap in a diagonal roof system and using great medium gear. Step right for a body length or so, then head up towards the upper headwall, using good gear and looking for the left trending finger crack.

There are 2 main finishing options but the .9 finger crack is the most fun. As the finger crack finishes, you reach a juggy arete. Most people choose to climb the right side of this, using the huge jugs and feet on .7(-sh?) climbing? Some people keep going around the arete and into the dihedral but the climbing isn't fun and going over there leads to a ton of rope drag.

When we first worked on this climb, I was over-stoking and thought the face directly below the anchors was fun so I bolted it at .11-, but it's far less fun than the finger crack.

The anchor is up on a ledge that you can't see from the ground. A 60 meter rope just barely makes it back to the ground for the rappel so be careful when lowering so a 70m is better.

Hibachi Time

Five Second Rule aka Thomas G Needs Beer Goggles

Salmonella

Secret Sauce

Maggot

Burning Embers

Firewalker

Mineral Slab

The Raw and the Cooked

Tofurkey

Hold My Beer

Wienie Roast

This route climbs the steep headwall to the right of Wienie Roast and crosses through the route Sunday Brunch.  It has great movement on mixed bolts and gear (like the other routes at Moss Ledges).  This route can be easily viewed atop the dryfall opposite the stream from the other routes.

Straightforward, fun face climbing on gigantic holds and originally done on all gear. Several old-school traddy friends highly encouraged us to add guidance bolts. "Even the Ruckmans put guidance bolts on Weenie Roast."

Once you can figure out the

Big Cottonwood Lean

, all the gear placements are from solid foot stances.

Way back in the day, Scott Keller helped me figure out how to establish a new route when we did Hibachi Time. As much as I still really like that climb, this is way more fun. The line is more straightforward and the climbing is more consistently at the grade. Even better: You still get to place a solid piece of gear, then move above it and turn your hips/back step/rock over/gaston/undercling, etc.

Finally, the straighter line makes this a lot less stressful for an inexperienced follower.

This is a super fun crack system with several cruxes and good rests. Its a great route for sport climbers who want to learn how to place gear. It traverses a little and protecting your second is almost more important than protecting yourself so sew it up.

You can obviously go low and make it a lot easier but it's a lot more fun to contrive yourself into staying high in the beginning upper crack. Mostly graded 9-ish because the crux of Hibachi Time is about that grade.

This was the day I met Tyler Phillips way back in the day. He and Luke had given us so many fun new lines and I thought there was no better way to say thank you than to do a new, low impact line with him. So lucky to have great friends like Tyler!!

Secret Sauce starts out slabby, barely qualifying as climbing, then gets progressively steeper. Follow the cleanest section of the slab for a full 90 feet finding some interesting gear placements.  Not run out at all, but a bit of BCC nut craft will likely come into play. Although contrived, avoiding the right corner at the crux is a bit more fun.

Start on a consistently overhung wall and follow the four bolts as they angle up and left.  Some tricky moves that we didn't get the first time.  After the fourth bolt, we angled slightly right over the bulge to easier climbing and then continued straight up.  A hand crack provided a place for great pro, and the anchors weren't too much further.  One of the anchor bolts can be seen silhouetted against the sky if standing in just the right place near the belay stance.

Start a few feet right of the large tree at the toe of the wall (

Wienie Roast

starts to the left of the tree).  Climb up for 30 or so feet then diagonal left into a broken corner.  Work up the corner until  possible to move left to gain the top of an obvious prow-like bulge.  Continue more or less straight up until the chains on

Wienie Roast

appear about 10 feet to the left.

Needs some more cleaning (we did it ground-up, with people below, so we were a bit restrained in our cleaning effort), but should spruce up nicely with more ascents.  Hence one star for now.

Approach:  Follow the paved trail and instead of taking the trail up Mill B South (towards Lake Blanch) stay straight and cross the creek, then hike up steep bank to an apparent old road.  Or, take the Mill B South trail and cross the creek, then immediately look for a less-traveled trail taking off to the left on a flat bench (at a switchback).  Take the old trail which is apparently an old road.  Follow road and then game/social trails through the woods to the east, eventually reaching the west-facing wall which forms the west side of the Mineral Slab.  Follow this down to the bottom of the slab, very near to the creek (Big Cottonwood Creek).  Start up and route find the path of least resistance (or most resistance, if thats your game).  Staying near the west edge provided steeper and more interesting climbing (and the views were better).

Very similar to the West Slabs on Mount Olympus, only maybe a bit easier.  Some of the slab can be walked up and some has steeper sections with fun climbing on usually solid, incut holds.

The slab gains about 1000 feet of vertical before it levels off and goes fairly low angle, continuing for a ways providing over 2000 feet of climbing/scrambling.  Typically well featured climbing, although a bit smooth in places with some route finding required to keep the climbing easy.

Great views over towards Moss Ledges as well as Mill B South/Broads Fork too.

Near to where the ridge bends over to lower angle, theres a couple ways to get down, involving some higher angle down climbing.  Take care.  Also, the further up the ridge one travels, the options to bail off the ridge become much more apparent.  Theres also a break in the slab lower down, and, it seems possible to traverse off in several locations should weather and/or conditions change for the worse.

From the top, follow the west side of the base of the slab downhill using switch backing social/game trails.  Goes fairly fast and easy.  Not that brushy.  At the transition of the ridge from steep enough to ski, to, almost level, theres a bit of a wide bench that follows the base of the ridge on the west wide (this bench is bordered by a cliff band below it to the west).  Open country for awhile, then into semi open forest.  Eventually, the Mill B South trail will be gained for the easy romp back to the parking lot.

Pull through the small roofs clipping bolts and placing gear.  A little pumpy and not quite as fun as Weinie Roast.  ****see comments below ***

This route can't decide if it's sport, trad, slab, or steep but it's much tastier than said fake poultry.  This is a fantastic easy/fun route with great position, especially for the new tradster.  Stay on the right side of the arete the whole way.

Awesome, juggy climbing with occasional slopers. The big block on the right draws your eye but is a dead end. Get creative, look the other way and find the hidden jugs that keep the crux bunchy but mellow. Slightly steeper version of Five Second Rule that eases up after the first bulge and comes back again near the end.

Climb the easy face, clip a bolt and work left onto the prow on another bolt and a pin.  Place some gear and climb another bolt or two.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moss Ledges