Start in the corner and turn an easy overhang following the crack to gain the wide section above. Climb the wide part until it squeezes down and deposits you at the base of the left leaning dihedral with a patina left face. This is the crux. I know I placed one bolt (5/16 button) and may have placed two in this section. I plan to revisit this route this spring and will update this report then.

The Hoosegow

Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance)

African Queen

Feeling Mary

This route starts in right slanting discontinuous cracks on the right side of the wall. Follow obvious cracks up and right past a pillar and a flake which lead to a small triangular ledge. Belay here at the base of the beautiful brown left facing arch. Go up, turn the corner, continue up 30' or so and step out right and finish passing two arches.

This route shares part of the first pitch of

Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance)

. Diagonal up that route to a ledge where a sharply left leaning dihedral goes up to a horizontal crack at a roof. Lieback the crack (5.10), hand traverse left and enter a flare with a hand crack in back. A short distance above is a nice ledge on the left. Continue up the straight in crack passing a small awkward roof (5.9+) and on to the top.

Climb cracks on the right side of the leaning ramp/pillar to the right of "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" until you find yourself in an alcove below a roof. Either exit the left side or directly through the roof (either way is 5.8) and do a slightly improbable traverse right on thin horizontal cracks. Belay on a sloping ledge with a dead Joshua Tree wedged in the crack to your right. Climb the crack to the right and straight up. Lieback and stem the thin crack above passing one bolt (5.10-), continue to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Dodge City