This route is the extension to Meat and Cookies and can be done as one long pitch. Climb Meat and Cookies to the anchor. Move up to a ledge and climb the arete on the right face past bolts to a bolt anchor.

Fortune Cookies

Flying Moose Arete

Magnum

Arete Project

Mancation

Side Jobs

Roofies

Meat & Cookies

A Rope Runs Through It

Anniversary Route

Blue Steel

Project

Lost Boys

The Stink

Climb Meat & Cookies to the anchor. Continue straight up off the anchor to a Vermont shaped wall. Climb the center of the face to a thin crux up high and a bolt anchor.

On the left end of the crag look for a sharp arete with bolts on the left. Climb the arete up to a bulge and move left to good holds. Pull the bulge and follow crack/seams to another bulge. Pull the bulge and slab up to the anchor. A short extension pitch leads past a few bolts to the top but most stop at the first anchor.

A high stick clip on the lip of the roof or a .75 cam will get you started. Start up a couple suspect flake/horns and gain a corner/roof. Pull through the roof up the shallow right facing corner (crux) and gain a foot ledge. Stay right of the final bolts and gain a ledge with a bolt anchor.

Climb A Rope Runs Through It and break left at the top to gain an anchor below the overhanging arete. Climb the arete on great rock to an anchor on top.

Work your way up to a high first bolt. Pull the roof on huge jugs and continue up the face on a variety of holds. Finish at a bolt anchor on top.

Climb Meat & Cookies to the anchor. Move up off the anchor to a ledge. Walk left up a ramp to a bolt. Climb the face with great holds past bolts to a foot ledge. Step left and gain a fist/hand crack. Follow the crack to a bolt anchor at the top.

Start up on some boulders at the base under a double tiered roof. Stickclip a high first bolt. Bolder up to a big undercling under the roof. Power through the second roof and gain a niche. Smooth sailing up and right on huge holds to an anchor on a ledge at the top.

Start just right of a dirty tree filled gully. Climb the face on big holds all the way. Move up and left at the top to a bolt anchor.

Climb up to the short left facing corner/bulge system. Pull on top of it and slab up to a ledge with a right facing corner with a crack. Follow it up and right placing gear to a bolt anchor below the overhanging wall.

This is a great route with a sport first pitch and a trad second pitch that can be linked into one pitch with some long runners!    P1: Start under a larger roof. Work up the face with gear under a fin of rock to a high first bolt. Pull out the left side of the roof and then move back right across the lip. Pull onto a big ledge with a bolt anchor. 5.10c   P2: Move right of the anchor and gain a ledge. Follow the ramp left into the corner. Follow the fun corner to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+   Rap the route back to the ground with a 60m rope. It is best to have some follow to clean the route.

The first bolted line where the approach trail meets the crag. A steep boulder start leads to the face and big holds. An optional #1 or #2 cam can be placed to protect the runout between bolts 3 and 4. Finish up the arete/corner feature to an anchor at the lip.

The wide crack just left of Blue Steel. A large cam in the #6 range is needed to protect the start or smaller gear comes quickly. Climb the wide crack and pull through the roof on hand jams. Follow the crack to a big chockstone which looks scary but is solid. Gain the ledge and step right and finish up the last few bolts of Blue Steel.

A super safe clip up on slopers! Balance your way up past bolts to a crux near the top. Pull onto a ledge with a bolt anchor.

The Lost Boys Area of North Bald Cap is located on the far right side of the huge cliff. It is a smaller but much steeper section with great holds and features. The rock quality is good but the routes here are new so beware of any lingering loose rock. The area offers mostly sport routes but bring the trad rack for some fun trad and mixed routes. This is a great spot to hit after a lap up the slabs. There is always a route in the shade!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5. Lost Boys Area