Super fun and long Spring alpine climb. Props if you do it car to car.

Follow the snowfield up to gain the ridge proper. Take a steep narrow snow gully for several hundred feet until you can easily step over onto the rocks out left. Follow weaknesses all the way up to the top of the ridge and onto the summit.

Backtrack down the North Ridge and descend either of the two approach routes.

North Ridge

The Central Spur

I had long peered at this alpine face and I had wondered if a quality Wasatch Alpine route could be yielded. We actually expected more moderate rock climbing grades yet we found 5.9-5.10 cruxes on almost every pitch. These are fairly well protected. We chose the aesthetic Central Spur because the rock appeared better and the climber is quite protected from falling rock and ice (spring and winter conditions). We were greeted by very dry rock in a wonderful alpine cirque. As the lichen and loose rock cleans up on the pitches, this climb will get better, we found it pretty good as it was. It was almost as if it had been waiting for us!

But this is an alpine climb....with all its associated characteristics and risks differing from the trade routes found lower in the canyon.  Please wear helmets and climb with caution.

Pitch #1: Look for a bolt about 40 feet up from the beginning of the climb when the angle steepens. Follow the arete/spur past two fixed pins and another bolt to a two bolt belay onto a pleasant perch. 5.9,55m.

Pitch #2: Up and right up a difficult section, but staying on the spur, pass 4 bolts and a few more fixed pitons. A traverse left brings the climber to a two bolt belay under a roof. 5.10, 35m.

Pitch #3: Traverse under the roof trending right passing two bolts to the "snow ramp" and a good ledge fixed belay. 5.9 (very alpine!), 20m.

Pitch #4: A beautiful pitch with a steep start. Climb past a bolt to a finger crack on the arete. Pass two more bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.9, 30m.

Pitch #5: Clip a fixed nut in the dihedral, traverse the face under the roof and pass 5 bolts to more fixed gear and then topping out on the climb to a ledge and two bolt belay. 5.10, 30m.

Continue about 200 vertical feet of easy 2nd or 3rd class to the summit.

Description

Location

Routes in Dromedary Peak