A very impressive dihedral intersects the North side of El Sombrero. This was first attempted by numerous parties over a two year period of time including Franziska Garrett, George Rosenthal, Layne Potter, and Chris Donharl...4 attempts... before completing it with Paul. Fixed ropes had been left to the top of the first pitch.

Pitch #1: Layback a hand crack up a flake that trends right into the dihedral. Continue up the hand crack which widens until it ends and climb up a faint ledgy section until a three-bolt belay ledge. Will be a phenomenal 5.11 desert free pitch one day! 5.10+, A0, 60m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the disappearing crack passing an optional two-bolt belay towards a roof, where a bolt ladder trends out right and up until a small crack appears around the corner that allows some gear and piton placements eventually reaching a ledge with a two-bolt belay. A0-A1.30m.

Pitch #3: From the ledge, climb past a bolt up a prow until the angle steepens and the rock becomes softer. Pass about 8 bolts to a crack and slabby bulgy manuevers to wiggle over the summit cap rock and a two-bolt belay. 5.9, A1. 60m.

Go to the south side of the tower top after signing in the summit register and rappel La Piñata. Be sure to make sure the pull is OK as a rope did become stuck here during the FA (also in the middle of the night!). It was subsequently cut and abandoned. From the huge ledge in the middle of La Piñata, you may also choose to descend via another rappel station on the north side of that ledge.

North Dihedral (aka Just Another BBQ)

La Piñata

A real tower experience in a remote setting.

Pitch #1: Climb 5.8 low angled section past a bolt to the right facing bulging dihedral. Follow this to a huge ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.10, A0, 50m.

Pitch #2: Leave the huge ledge for the summit starting up low angle slab (5.9) protected by one bolt. The angle steepens with A1 moves passing several bolts and holes and fixed protection is necessary to climb higher. Pass a fixed Nut, a ledge, and some 5.7 climbing to the tower top and two bolt belay. 5.9, A1, 55m.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in El Sombrero