Start on the lower crux of Climb Against Humanity. At the break, traverse right along the horizontal to join the crux of On the Take. Then continue right along a seam, placing a piece or two in a mailbox slot. Do another tricky sequence to join Punishment Fits the Climb to the top. Extending a couple of runners keeps rope drag manageable.This  route links some of the best sequences on the wall. This is one of many silly link-ups that kept me busy in quarantine. I was fortunate to be just down the road and able to use this place as a gym. 

Climb and Punishment (AKA Reform the Police!)

On The Take

Public Enemy

Punishment Fits the Climb

The Witness

Climb Against Humanity

Criminal Minds

Partners in Climb

This testpiece makes a straight, right-leaning line up the wall. It crosses Criminal Minds at the 3rd bolt, forming an X.Stick clip. Work up big compression moves to a crack, then to a horizontal break; it's about 12b to this point. Rest up, go up and right to a pinch, then make a dynamic move up and left (crux). Mantel to a stance on a ledge in a right-facing corner, then up this easily to a fixed anchor.

Great climbing up a crack, followed by a puzzling, sequential face above.

 Go up the crack to its top, then follow a snaking seam past bolts up to a fixed anchor.

Amazing route, like the others on this wall. DO IT! 

  Go up the seam to a good horizontal, then straight up the face for a bit. Angle right to a sidepull, then follow a left-rising seam to a good slanting hold. A hard gaston gains a few crimps, then move dynamically up and right to a horn. Move back left on jugs to a fixed anchor at the top.

Similar to Public Enemy to the right, but more sustained with a harder crux at the top. It shares the crux move of Public Enemy, so in that sense, it's not entirely independent. The grade is from the sustained nature of the line. 

  Go up the crack and wall left of the crack to a jug shared with Public Enemy. Pull that route's crux, then traverse a few feet left on crimps and poor feet to a long move to a good edge up and left. A couple easier moves gain the foot ledge at the top and a shared anchor.

Beautiful line with three cruxes. It's slow to dry in the spring, but once dry, stays dry even in big rains.

 Stick clip! Go up the right leaning crack for 12', then angle up and left across three more cracks. The 1st crux is crossing from crack #2 to #3. At the last crack there's a good right-knee-bar rest. Hand traverse left 10', then up left-hand sidepulls and right-hand compression underclings to a throw for better holds (2nd crux). Move up to a good rest, then tackle the final puzzling headwall (3rd crux) to the fixed anchor.

This route packs a lot of pump for its length!Make a couple of powerful moves up to a small overlap that runs horizontally to the left. Traverse left (crux) with small feet and tricky movement to a short finger crack. Climb up the crack to a horizontal and get a good rest. Follow the horizontal left and then make your way up juggy terrain to a right rising ramp and the fixed anchor.

Stick clip. Stand on your toes to reach the starting holds on the arete. Pull onto the left wall and climb past several horizontals to a deep hand-sized horizontal crack. Go up the face staying just left of the arete. At the top, (V1) swing right around the arete to better holds on a slab, then reach left to a fixed anchor.V1 5.12b: At the top, you can go straight to the anchor instead of moving around to the right side. There are just enough holds to make this go. Bumps the grade, and has clean falls. 

This is a newly discovered area with one very exceptional wall called The Crime Scene. (Many of the routes are named using a Climb/Crime pun.) This wall faces east and has 7 sport climbs, and many linkups. From left to right, the primary routes are 12d, 13a, 11c, 12b, 12d/13a, 12c, 12a.

Description

Protection

Routes in Split Rock Canyon