Heartbreaker

is a classic line, which does not see a lot of traffic due to its location.  The next time you are at

Boxtop

or

The Odyssey

, you should stop and check out this beauty.  It is one of the better 5.10 trad lines at the City.

Follow the thin leaning hand crack to the crux move entering the dihedral.  The crack above eases to easy 5.10 with good jams and gear.  Save at least one #2 camalot for the anchor, which is hand size gear.

Heartbreaker

Surfing the Orgasmic Wave

A hard to spot line,

Surfing the Orgasmic Wave

climbs a dark water streak past a few bolts over thin and dicey terrain.

Starting low in a crop of boulders, climb up to a small ledge and gain an awkward broken flake.  Follow this feature to a difficult to hold stance. Break hard right over a blank and cryptic face to join the remaining and more climbable slab.

Climb straight up over thin edges and shallow pockets to a chain anchor. Consistent, Continuous, and Unforgiving! Classic City of Rocks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Heartbreaker