TR the north face of the Pharaoh's Kitten. Excellent calcite sandstone crimping leads to the anchor. Too bad it isn't longer.

Pharaoh's Kitten, North Face

Pharaoh's Kitten

Akhenaten

This small distinct tower is located 300 yards west-southwest of the Pharaoh. Begin climbing on the northeast side of the tower to gain the narrow east ridge. Climb the featured, thin ridge to the top.

The sandiest section is the final summit mantle. A supplemental finger-sized piece backs up the single bolt anchor.

Akhenaten climbs the tallest of the towers.

P1 – 5.11- or 5.10+ C1, 170 feet –

Begin at the southwest prow of the tower up the only obvious dihedral crack system which leads to a pedestal. This is a monster pitch. From the ground, a short 5.9 crack leads to a ledge with some loose rocks (we already removed a bunch). Continue up the corner as the crack widens (5.10) until gaining another ledge. From this ledge, a 20 foot section of overhanging baggy fists can be french freed or climbed at 5.11- (the crack is slick, grimy and awkward; we french freed). The rock quality improves past this point. Pull a small roof and continue up wide hands until transitioning left into a good hand crack. Follow this crack as it widens. Stem and chimney for another 30 feet (take several large cams or bump through this section) to a bolted anchor at the top of the pedestal. With some traffic (unlikely) this long and varied pitch would host an excellent pitch of free climbing.

P2 – 5.8 A1, 90 feet –

This pitch has four star positioning and it's very possible this pitch could be free climbed; if so, it would be reminiscent of Excommunication on the Priest. From the comfy belay ledge, climb up a short crack leading to a mantle and the first bolt (5.8). Aid through a few bolts and at the 4th hangered bolt, tension traverse to the right side arete to a crack system. Clean aid through the awkward and physical bulge until it peters out (C1). Then cut back to the left side of the arete and aid on bolts leading to a small roof. Aid through the roof and continue up a hairline seam (A1, small iron) to another nice bolted belay ledge.

A small selection of LAs (shortie helpful), a single set of beaks and hooks are suggested for this pitch. We didn't have them but the bent stem Moses Tomahawks would be an ideal choice. Also plan on either bat hooking or using pins in 3 holes between bolts (we did some of both). Although it doesn't appear wide, rack the #4s and #5 for the clean aid sections.

**It should be noted that the hanger on the 4th bolt needs to be replaced. We trundled a 2'X6'X8'' block, very easily, below the roof (pretty scary to aid past initially and scary for the belayer) that damaged the hanger.**

P3 – 5.9, 50 feet –

From the belay, step left and follow the nice hand crack to a small ledge below the summit (5.9). Then face climb up some friable rock for 10 feet to the summit (5.6). The views are stellar!

Three rappels down the route reach the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Pharaoh