P1. Climb up the slab to the first bolt, make a long, awkward move to the flake on the left and then follow bolts up to the crack. Follow the nice splitter (might be some vegetation in spots, as it doesn't see much traffic) as it widens from fingers to fists. Best to move up past the first anchor to the next anchor 20' higher.

P2. Follow the bolts up the edge of the face. The exposure in spots is excellent, as the formation drops steeply into the gully on your right. Stop at the obviously belay anchor, or link with the next pitch for a 200' monster.

P3. Follow more bolts up as the rock gets steeper, working whichever side appeals to you. Really nice climbing.

Descent:

Make 2 single rope raps back to the higher belay anchor at the top of the first pitch. From here, a 70m cord will get you to the bottom if you head down in the right spot, otherwise move to the lower anchor. With a 60m, you SHOULD be able to reach the ground from the lower anchor, but may have to rap into the gully on climber's right instead, make sure to pay attention while you rap.

Taliban Blues

Hellhound

No Name

Straight Through The Gates of Hell

Pitch 1: 5.9. Start at a bolt by some obvious ledges and go up the slab to the anchor left of the small tree.

Pitch 2: 5.10a. Tackle the bolted slab left of the obvious seam of the original route.

Pitch 3: 5.9. Climb up the thin crack, and move left through a small roof.

Pitch 4: 5.9 or 5.10a. There are two variations, the right hand is 5.10a and is bolted, the left is 5.9 and is gear and bolts.

Hellhound is an amazing, overhung, compression problem in the middle of the meadow. This problem is very wide and may be impossible for those with a span under ~5'9".

Start at the bottom of the roof with a sharp-ish, left hand jug sidepull (bottom of the hold) and your right hand on the bottom of the arete on a flat shelf-hold. Use heelhooks, toehooks, and more to compress your way up.

The rock is perfect on this thing.

There is also a higher V10ish start, starting with the same left hand (but more underclinging the hold than sidepulling) and your right hand 2 holds higher on a good sloper on the arete (4 inches to the right of the sloper with the good thumbcatch) This start may be slightly less morpho.

Wide Crack on lower wall. Climb the crack on the right wall using the horizontal crack. Fun Climb!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slab from Hell