Peanuts, sticky floors, cheep beers, and girls looking to make bad decisions. You'd be hard pressed to find a climber in DGO who hasn't had a night of fun and fornication at this classic dive bar.

With no defined crux and zero fluff climbing, this route comes down to pure endurance. Expect big, thuggy moves on mostly good holds with little opportunity for rest. Begin by squeezing your way out the prominent arete feature. Fight your way into the underclings in the roof and transition onto the beautiful headwall of bad slopers and incut edges. With a little traffic, I think this will clean up into a four star route.

This is the old abandoned project listed in the guidebook as a 5.13 project. Based on the condition the route was in when I started working on it, I do believe I made the first free ascent. Just to make the route safe and climbable, I had to add one bolt, move two exiting bolts, and move the anchors down about 15 feet. If anyone has more information on the history of this route, I would love to know.

El Rancho

Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure)

A Gentlehoe

Summertime

Buffy

El Jefe

Huffy

Black Streak

Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner)

La Cantina

Back in the Day

Sweatpants in Public

Blue Collar

El Jefe is a mega-fun 20 foot extension to the mega-fun, .12d

La Cantina

. Like all the big routes on the Roof Wall, there is an 8 foot band of junk rock. Other than that one section, the rock quality is good to fantastic. Expect very physical climbing on mostly good holds. The bolts are well spaced on the extension, so be prepared to log some major airtime.

This seems to be seldom climbed and often dirty. Climb a small left-facing, left-angling corner just right of

Respecting the Law (Handcrack Corner)

.

Are you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.

Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!

The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.

I bolted this line this summer (2021) after staring at it for years. I figured out the moves and got really excited about it, and then a couple minor finger injuries kept me away from it. There's been a ton of traffic on it, so I'm sure someone has sent it by now. Please let me know if you did and what grade you think it is.

This gets great shade, hence the name! Summer...summer...summertime!

Better bring the big guns for the face melting, forearm bursting pump that this route packs!

Buffy is an alternate start to

Huffy

with more consistent and steeper climbing but slightly less difficult moves. The two routes meet at the midway crux of

Huffy

.

Start the same as

A Gentlehoe

for the first four bolts. At the good rest under the roof, bust right (first crux) with powerful lockoffs through good pockets to gain an ok rest at bolt #6. From here, pull into the midway crux of

Huffy

(second crux) to get the final rest at bolt #8 before the powerful and long ender crux of

Huffy

.

As for the grade, again I really have no clue. It seems to be just a bit more demanding than

Huffy

.

Huffy is a good, hard rock climb - gymnastic, pumpy, and a lot of fun. The rock, on the other hand, is not that good. One must ignore some sand, cobwebs, and creaky blocks to appreciate Huffy's aesthetic movement on a steep, limestone wall.

Begin with an opening boulder problem on pinches to technical moves in steepening rock. Pull out a short roof and do the second (and slightly more difficult) boulder problem on crimps and slopers. Keep the pump in check as you move into the high, dynamic crux on bad sidepulls. Clip the chains and lower - 30 feet out from the wall and conveniently right onto the trail.

As to the rock quality, all the bolts and holds (that I used) are on solid rock. Some holds required extensive brushing. There were two reinforced holds - one ripped off with little effort on my part. The other one seems solid and is still in place, but it doesn't seem useful. So again, the rock is a bit chossy, but the route is a worthwhile challenge.

This has awesome, "steep vertical" climbing on crimps up the black streak. It has two big moves.  It links up with the top of the neighboring crack.

F-u-n.

12+?

It is given a 12 in some edition of Durango Sandstone.

Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) is an alright crack for a limestone crag. Climb the obvious, left-facing corner that steepens at the top. It is often wet.

La Cantina is a fantastic addition to the Roof Wall. Fun movement on some of the best rock in the canyon makes this route a must do!

Start by hugging your way up the first two bolts of

El Rancho

. From the undercling block below bolt #3, cruise left on fun, swingy jugs to get established on a nice, juggy ledge. Rest up and launch into the pumpy mid-section of the route. Pass some taxing clips (#6-7), and power through the crux on big sidepulls, big deadpionts, and small feet. Enjoy the last few feet of fun jug climbing, clip the anchors, lower down, tie back in, and do it all over again, because it's just that much fun!

Start with a fun laybacking crux between bolts 1 & 2. Then enjoy the moderate middle with good hands and feet to a great rest. Shake out, then climb an upper steeper crux, and finish at chains. This is kind of long and is a good warm-up for the area. Get on it!

Sweatpants is a big, steep monster of a route climbing out the center of the Roof Wall on the best section of stone (with one 8 foot section of junk).

The first portion of the route is characterized by hard boulder problems separated by easier climbing with a the hardest guarding a big rest at the 50 foot mark. From here, the route gets much steeper, and it's a thuggy, 20 foot power endurance race to the chains.

Sweatpants will also test one's powers of beta memory and technical trickery.

This route was well equipped by Evan Blair years ago. After the first 5 feet of total choss, the route get's better and better. It is 100% natural with zero glue. The movement is better than the aesthetics.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)