This climb ascends an obvious crack system on the north face. The climbing is really steep, which makes the positions and exposure exciting. Even though the climb is rather short (120’), you still end up placing a lot of pieces. This is a fun climb with a short approach to the top of a seldom-visited summit.

North Face (The Wishbone)

The Lucky Side

This is sort-of a new route. It shares the upper thrid with the original line, but the majority of the route is new.

The line starts 30 feet right of the original route. I was a bit nervous about the stability of the first two placements, so I looked for an alternative to reach the upper crack. There is a cleft to a crack 30 feet right that allowed for funky free climbing to reach the upper third of the original route.

The start is a bit scary... loose oppositional climbing for about 20 feet before you get a good piece. More wierdness, then a  wide section with a bombay for a crux. It may only be 5.9.... I was alone and it felt 5.10 to me. Continue on then traverse left to the original line and begin aiding up the rotting crack.

The crack goes clean, but its got some very soft, grainy spots that could easily break up under force. I think its solid C2.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Wishbone