Start 10 right of Finger Lickin Good Yall. Climb the featured slab with tricky pro to a bolt. Continue up the pockets to a stance with gear in a small shallow left facing corner near the top with gear. Continue up to a ring anchor on top. 40

End of the World Plan

Penetration

Hair of the Dog

Live Rust

Toga

Pin Me Up Scotty

Frequent Flyer

Finger Lickin Good Yall

Candlepin Route

Pocket Poachers

Tail Spin

Dirty Thieving Loran

Blobber

Start the same as Hair of the Dog. Climb 10 up the crack and move right onto the face (bolt). Continue up the featured slab past two more bolts to a crux finish. Pull over the lip to the trees on top. 40

The obvious hand crack that diagonals right to left across the steep section of The Golden Wall. Climb the hand crack with increasing difficulty. Make the crux moves at the top and pull onto a ledge. Use the large Oak on top for an anchor. 55

The obvious crack that diagonals from right to left across the slab section of The Golden Wall. Climb the crack/corner system for 20 to a stance. Follow the crack across the slab making some thinner crux moves and finish at the trees on top. 60

Start just left of the large beech tree in the center of the cliff. Climb the steep/overhanging face past 4 bolts and pull into the shallow left facing corner to a pin under the roof. Move up and left into another left facing corner (bolt) and fire the final face to a ledge and shared anchor with Candlepin. 50

Start at the left edge of the slab. Climb up the featured slab past two bolts to a horizontal with gear. Climb straight up the arête to big holds and finish up the easy slab to the trees on top. 40

Climb the face of pockets and slap up the arête to the pointed horn (pin). Continue up easier slab to a second hidden pin. Follow the seam/crack left placing gear to a left facing corner. Pull the final bulge (crux) and walk back to a tree anchor. 50

Start up the crack of Penetration for 15 placing gear and then climb straight up the face using pockets, flakes, and seams past three spaced bolts offering clean falls. Finish at a ring anchor on top. 55

Start 5 right of Pin Me Up Scotty. Follow the obvious pockets to a pin at 10. Continue up to a bolt and an optional nut placement in a crack. Punch it up the steep face on crimps to a second bolt. Move left to the arête and gain a crimp rail to move back right to a stance and a pin under the roof. Move out the left side of the roof to a ledge with a ring anchor. 45

Start 15 to the right of Toga at a small shelf at chest height. Pull onto shelf and follow to line of pockets left to a large pocket halfway up the face (bolt). Make the crux moves up and right to gain the crack. Finish up the crack placing gear or run it out to the trees on top. 45

Climb the large block at the base of the slab. Use tree for pro and possiblly a questionable cam. slab through the crux without protection then climb big jugs to near the top. use sapling and/or decent small cam for pro. top out.

Make a few moves into the alcove and then fire over the small roof on big jams.  Belay anchor is a tree about 10' back from the top, walk off back right to descend.

This climb is located on a small blob of rock just right of The Golden Wall. Climb up a wet streak to seam/crack with pro. Pull the overhang and continue up the face on good holds with good pro to the trees on top. 30

This is the upper tier of the crag. The Golden Wall offers great slab, crack, and vertical climbing on pockets and excellent features. The routes range from 25-60' and range from 5.7-5.12.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Golden Wall